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Forum > Fitting Woes > Crotch depth ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Crotch depth
Am I really that different?
SVN
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SVN
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Date: 2/24/12 4:16 PM

In my recent efforts at pants-fitting, I am coming round to the idea that I need more crotch depth. I made a sloper in a drafting class a few years back and my 28cm (11") rise seemed unremarkable. Today I went through a whole bunch of Burda patterns (ones that go to the waist) and found that the pants that are my general size (size 38 Burda or 12 in Big 4), the rise is only about 23cm.
Is it really possible to be 2" off the normal? I've got to say that I never noticed (visually) that my lower torso is super long. I'm 5'8".

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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Date: 2/24/12 4:44 PM

It could be just a different pelvis shape, nothing unusual there. I don't know which Burda pattern you are using, but all trousers I made before using Burda's patterns are a bit lower.

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In reply to Lena Merrin


Date: 2/24/12 4:52 PM

Do you mean that, in your experience, Burda has a longer crotch depth measurement than other patterns? So on other patterns I might be adding more than 5cm?!

-- Edited on 2/24/12 7:46 PM --

woggy
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In reply to SVN


Date: 2/24/12 5:00 PM

My crotch depth is 11 inches and most patterns today are made to fit below one's natural waist.

You are not unusual. I find Burda to be very short and have added as much as 2 - 2.5 inches for crotch depth.

If you don't add the crotch depth, you could have problems with the pants, unless you want them below your natural waist.

If you are curvey, the pants may not stay in place because of your curves.

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In reply to woggy


Date: 2/24/12 5:16 PM

Thanks for your reply, Woggy. I'm measuring the crotch depth of patterns that are intended to hit at the natural waist (and I'm including the waistband depth). I even had trouble with the Jalie jeans, the size S crotch depth is approx 7.5" and they are intended to fall 2-3" below the waist, so they are based on a pattern block with a 9-10" crotch depth. I will need to raise the depth by 1-2"!!!
Do you mind if I ask how tall you are? Is crotch depth associated with height? Or are you and I just in a very small long-pelvis club?
Also, do you have better luck with Big 4 or any of the other pattern companies?

Nancy K
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In reply to SVN


Date: 2/24/12 6:00 PM

Actually at 5'8" you probably are going to have a longer crotch depth. BTW, this has nothing to do with crotch shape, that would be indicated in your crotch length, which is measured from the front waist to the back waist.
I wouldn't worry about it, just note it and adjust your pants accordingly. You would not add at the top of your pattern, but rather slash across and add below the darts and pockets, or if you can't add below the pockets you can draw a stepped slash that starts below the pocket and then go up and across so that you are not changing the crotch curve.
-- Edited on 2/24/12 6:04 PM --

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In reply to Nancy K


Date: 2/24/12 6:45 PM

Thanks for your advice, Nancy. I get a 'front wedgie' (is there a delicate way to say that?) no matter how much I play with the curve shape and length. If I have a longer crotch depth than most patterns account for, it would certainly explain a lot!

Lena Merrin
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Date: 2/24/12 8:03 PM

Burda's seat length ( crotch depth ) is a bit shallow, and the "front wedgie" can also be due to the shape of the front crotch extension.

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In reply to Lena Merrin


Date: 2/24/12 8:56 PM

Thanks, Lena.
I've recently found that I need to make the front crotch curve more shallow and slope the addition all the way up to the waist at CF, in order to get rid of pulls radiating from the front crotch. I use this fix because otherwise the front crotch pulls away from my body, but now that the fabric is relaxing and once again skimming my body in this area, this has This has made the front wedgie issue a bit worse.
Hopefully adding crotch depth will help?!

Lena Merrin
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Date: 2/25/12 2:25 AM

Usually the wrinkles radiating from the area mean you need to add some room there - whether by making a crotch more shallow or adding at the side seams ( fronts only ). I can see how making a shallow crotch seam will give you a wedgie, I wouldn't alter it to get rid of wrinkles in this case.

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