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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > What is it called and how do I do it?

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What is it called and how do I do it?
Neckline treatment advice needed.
tourist
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tourist  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/25/12 10:36 AM

I want to do a collar something like THIS but with a tie on the side (or maybe a bow) but I can't figure out what it is called to do a better search.

Mine would be made with a stretchy knit and be a bit narrower than this one plus the neck will be more scooped front and back. Is it as simple as making a narrow scarf/tie and adding it to the existing neckline?

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EleanorSews
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Date: 2/25/12 10:58 AM

It has the look of a portrait collar although a bit smaller than one traditionally thinks of it. portrait collar example

You might begin there.

ETA: It's a bit like a reverse portrait collar though because it has the notch in the back.

-- Edited on 2/25/12 11:02 AM --

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Michelle L
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In reply to tourist


Date: 2/25/12 11:05 AM

Would New Look 6808 help with what you are looking to do?

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stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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Date: 2/25/12 11:38 AM

I love that Vogue dress, Tourist!

Eleanor, I've always thought the portrait collar/neckline was more like this:



But I've recently been seeing the term used to describe that kind of stiff, open cowl that sits a little closer to the neck, like in your link, and I've been wondering about it. (That's quite a bit off topic, but it has been niggling at me, so I thought I'd ask!)
-- Edited on 2/25/12 11:40 AM --

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nicegirl
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Date: 2/25/12 11:56 AM

I would call that a funnel neck, and it is most likely made with a rectangular piece of fabric. If you want it to stand up in a knit, you're going to have to use a fairly stiff interfacing. If you want it scooped more in the front, I'd call it a cowl and make the rectangle taller and skip the interfacing.

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beauturbo
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In reply to tourist


Date: 2/25/12 12:12 PM

I don't have that exact pattern so can't see the pattern piece, but I think it's probably just a rectangle but cut on the bias, not straight grain. Because of the way it folds there. At last on that woven fabric, but if on a knit, I still would make it bias there too.

But if you just even went to the fabric store, you can grab and open up the pattern and look at the pattern sheet, and tell by the cutting layout on it, without having to actually buy and pay for the pattern. It's done all the time. but lots of sewers often, before even choosing and buying and taking home a sewing pattern. As long as you only do it to one pattern at a time in a store and look like you know what you are doing, and are careful to fold every thing back like original, after looking at a pattern, I don't think anyone would most times mind there at all there. I do that kind of thing all the time, and no one has ever had a problem with it, in any fabric stores ever.

DollyS
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Date: 2/25/12 12:58 PM

This appears to be a modified cowl collar. I done this before on a bias which allows it to stand-up.

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to tourist


Date: 2/25/12 2:31 PM

This looks like a shortened cowl. And to make the tie on the side, you extend past the shoulder seam to make the bow/tie.

What I would do is drop your neckline to where you want it, but add your seam allowance (it should sit above the desired area the seam allowance width). Measure around the neckline and remove 1" (1.25 cm). Then make the collar by cutting it on the bias, the length of which is the neckline minus the 1" (1.25 cm); don't forget to add the extended pieces Make this piece about 4-6 inches (10-15cm) wide, and fold it in half. Starting at the side seam, with the extended piece hanging loose, stitch it to the neckline, and end up again at the side seam.

Removing the 1" makes it sit a little tighter on the neck, even with a bias cut.

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tourist
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Date: 2/25/12 4:16 PM

Michelle - that NL pattern is much closer to what I was looking for. I am not sure if it will be a bow or a tie or a flower of some sort. I find I like to have a 3 dimensional element on my gowns. I didn't really know that until someone else pointed it out to me.

I think I will start with a tie cut on the bias, interface it with some nice, firm organza and see how it goes.

Edited because my computer is being stupid...I looked for images of portrait collars and got all sorts of stuff, but nothing like this. And I did see one pattern that called it a cowl, but it isn't what I think of as a cowl. The Vogue pattern is really nice, I agree. Now back to wrestling with 20 yards of glitter organza....

-- Edited on 2/25/12 4:20 PM --
Oh - and thanks Miss Fairchild. I was thinking much along the same lines.
-- Edited on 2/25/12 4:21 PM --

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http://bgballroom.wordpress.com to follow the progress on my next ballgown.

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to tourist


Date: 2/25/12 9:41 PM

I've seen these collars pulled through a loop of sorts, then knotted at the side seam. Recently a woman's writing group I belong to had a paper about Jackie Kennedy, and there was a picture with her wearing a pink dress with this type of collar.

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"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

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