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Forum > Fitting Woes > Help with fitting V1036 ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Help with fitting V1036
Shoulder and armhole problem?
margk

margk  Friend of PR
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 6/10/08
Posts: 1469
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Date: 2/26/12 2:00 AM

I am hoping someone can steer me in the right direction. I seem to have this type of problem on a regular basis.
I'm trying to fit Sandra Betzina's V1036 jacket. I cut our a Size C based on my full bust measurement as she suggests. This was enormous on my narrow shoulders, even after doing an adjustment. So I have now cut out a Size B, and removed 2cm at the outside of the shoulder.
It seems to fit OK at the shoulders and bust but when I raise my arm, the sleeve binds. Do I just have to live with this? The sleeves, even on the Size C seemed fairly tight for a jacket.
Front
Side
Back
Arm raised
I coerced my 15 yo DS into taking these photos, so they may not be the best

Any help would be appreciated.

Edited to add I forgot to take a photo with a shoulder pad in. It definitely looks better with one, but still binds.
-- Edited on 2/26/12 2:04 AM --

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Marg
Tamworth NSW Australia Bernina 1130, Bernina 810B Babylock Imagine Wave Elna 614DE Janome Coverpro 1000 CPX

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
Expert/Couture
AUSTRALIA
Member since 2/5/09
Posts: 576
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Date: 2/26/12 2:40 AM

Marg, I think the shoulder is too long, armscye is too far from the body and the sleeve binds

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margk

margk  Friend of PR
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 6/10/08
Posts: 1469
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Date: 2/26/12 3:25 AM

Lena,
Since this is a shoulder princess seam, is there any advantage in removing width at the seam instead of the outside shoulder? I am thinking this maintains the armhole shape better? Or no difference?

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Marg
Tamworth NSW Australia Bernina 1130, Bernina 810B Babylock Imagine Wave Elna 614DE Janome Coverpro 1000 CPX

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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AUSTRALIA
Member since 2/5/09
Posts: 576
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Date: 2/26/12 3:34 AM

Quick afterthought: I said take it in at princess seam and then realised that you are running a risk of increasing your bust dart by doing it, unless you are going to take the bodice front in all the way past bust point. But if it fits fine at the bust, then I guess you'll have to take off the shoulder width at the scye. It will also change position of the princess seams a bit ( if they are dead in the middle of the shoulder ).
-- Edited on 2/26/12 3:42 AM --

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www.iconicpatterns.com

margk

margk  Friend of PR
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 6/10/08
Posts: 1469
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Date: 2/26/12 4:21 AM

Thanks Lena,
I'm sure you read that I have already taken 2cm off the shoulder (and this is the smaller-than-my-bust size). I would love to ditch this pattern (and maybe I should ) but I paid full price for it

Edited to add: can I take some shoulder width out of the princess seam, and taper it to maybe just above the bust point?

BTW my toile fabric is gorgeous to sew - an old sheet!
-- Edited on 2/26/12 4:23 AM --

------
Marg
Tamworth NSW Australia Bernina 1130, Bernina 810B Babylock Imagine Wave Elna 614DE Janome Coverpro 1000 CPX

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
Expert/Couture
AUSTRALIA
Member since 2/5/09
Posts: 576
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Date: 2/26/12 4:29 AM

Marg, you'll have to go past the bust point, because only then the dart will not increase. It is a shame when the pattern needs too much work!

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www.iconicpatterns.com

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