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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Collar modification help needed

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Collar modification help needed
Going from one-piece to collar+stand
lakaribane
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lakaribane
Haiti
Member since 7/23/07
Posts: 2466
Skill: Advanced Beginner
Body Type:
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Date: 2/26/12 11:56 AM

Many of you can identify with me, I think:

Lost my mojo months ago. Still not sure where it is but am having a wardrobe crisis. The clothes I had made are looking tired and I seem to be wearing the same 5 things to work.

I need to do something.

I have this wrap blouse pattern that I made once before. The double-benefit is clear: it's on its way to being TNT (I love it that much) and it has no closures so, theoritically, a fast sew.

My problem is that I don't like the one-piece collar where the collar and stand are one pattern/fabric. It's floppy, something I realize is an inherent problem of this type of pattern.

So I want to make it a two-piece to get the kind of fit I want.

Do I just trace the width of the stand out of the pattern piece and cut it out (1 piece --> 2 pieces)?

OR

Do I frankenstein a collar+stand from another pattern (of the same issue) to match the circumference of the neckline?

Edited for clarity
-- Edited on 2/26/12 12:02 PM --

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Morphology: Petite at 1m53 (5'), Burda size altered 19 or altered 38, Big 4 size 10 or 12 depending on ease;
Alterations: Petite, Narrow Shoulders, Slim Arms, Narrow waist, Increase Back Crotch Depth. Considering: Forward Neck/Rounded Upper Back, Slight Swayback;
Style: Feminine, Colorful, Fitted, Clean lines;
Favorite Garment type: Dress;
Favorite Colors: Purple, Navy, Brown, Shocking Pink, Coral, Aqua;
Favorite Fibers, Weaves or Patterns: Cotton, Linen, Cotton Silk blend, Seersucker, Swiss Dot, Lawn, Denim, Stripes, Chevron, Window pane Plaid, Bias;
Blog : http://fashionmate.blogspot.com
Pinterest : http://pinterest.com/lakaribane/

nancy2001
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nancy2001  Friend of PR
Member since 12/3/05
Posts: 6441
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In reply to lakaribane


Date: 2/26/12 12:15 PM

If the collar is "floppy," you could simply add interfacing to the part of the back of the collar that's below the fold. Otherwise, as you suggested, you could trace the width of the stand (1 piece)and add seam allowances. Or, you could do a Frankenpattern and adjust for any discrepancies.

If you intend to modify collars and other parts of patterns, I think it would be helpful for you to read Make Your Own Dress Patterns by Adele Margolis. That inexpensive, and comprehensive but nontechnical introduction to pattern drafting will give you more confidence in your own already well developed ability to figure out these types of changes on your own.



-- Edited on 2/26/12 12:26 PM --

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No sewing project is ever a complete success nor a total failure.

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
New South Wales Australia
Member since 2/5/09
Posts: 622
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Date: 2/26/12 3:20 PM

You can't just cut a one-piece collar into two, they are shaped slightly differently. You can probably trace a collar from another model, just make sure the neckline and collar length match exactly.

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www.iconicpatterns.com

lakaribane
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lakaribane
Haiti
Member since 7/23/07
Posts: 2466
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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Date: 2/27/12 5:54 PM

Thank you both for the replies. I think I'm going to go with the Frankensteining of another collar.

And check if I don't have the Margolis. I guess the PR reflex is that strong, LOL!

------
Morphology: Petite at 1m53 (5'), Burda size altered 19 or altered 38, Big 4 size 10 or 12 depending on ease;
Alterations: Petite, Narrow Shoulders, Slim Arms, Narrow waist, Increase Back Crotch Depth. Considering: Forward Neck/Rounded Upper Back, Slight Swayback;
Style: Feminine, Colorful, Fitted, Clean lines;
Favorite Garment type: Dress;
Favorite Colors: Purple, Navy, Brown, Shocking Pink, Coral, Aqua;
Favorite Fibers, Weaves or Patterns: Cotton, Linen, Cotton Silk blend, Seersucker, Swiss Dot, Lawn, Denim, Stripes, Chevron, Window pane Plaid, Bias;
Blog : http://fashionmate.blogspot.com
Pinterest : http://pinterest.com/lakaribane/

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