wenznz
 Advanced Beginner NEW ZEALAND Member since 7/8/11 Posts: 235 |
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Date: 2/28/12 1:47 AM I recently made the Jalie Sweetheart top, and while I was reasonably happy with the fit from the bust down, the shoulders and neckline were quite loose and gaped a lot.
I chose my size based on my full bust as recommended in the instructions, but wonder if perhaps I should try using my high bust instead.
I would usually make a FBA in wovens and use my high bust(am a D cup), but had read that you shouldn't need to do them with knits necessarily as the stretch should take care of it.
Would I start on the size that matches my high bust at the shoulders and armhole and then glide out to the full bust size at the bust down? And does this mean I make the sleeves (when I have them) in my high bust or full bust size??
I'm sorry if this seems like a ditzy question, but this is my first foray into knits, and I'm keen to continue with it if I can just figure out the best way to proceed. 
------ Wendy
Wellington, New Zealand |
Jodi B.
 Intermediate VA USA Member since 8/24/02 Posts: 617 |
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Date: 2/28/12 9:22 AM I actually choose most knit patterns by my high bust size, Wenznz. For me, I've found that it's much harder to get a good fit on my shoulders/upper chest area than my bust, so I chose my initial size based on that measurement. Like you, I've got a very full bust, but I've also got very narrow shoulders and a narrow chest. I think any cup size higher than a C probably needs a FBA -- even in a knit. The advantage of a knit is that you don't always need to actually sew the dart. Sometimes you can just ease the extra fabric in a bit. For some styles, you would add an actual dart.
For the Jalie Sweetheart top, there are already gathers going into the bands at the sides. I'd rotate my FBA into that and just add some additional gathers -- at least, that's what I did. Hope it helps!
-- Edited on 2/28/12 9:24 AM -- |
Raye Ann
 Intermediate CA USA Member since 3/25/09 Posts: 773 |
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Date: 3/5/12 11:19 PM I also usually use my full bust measurements with Jalie patterns, but I did find that the sweetheart top was particularly wide for me ( not a usual problem in knits) through the shoulders, front neckline and front chest. I would suggest you size down and see where that gets you...
I am a smaller D cup and don't need FBAs in Jalie, but that may be my fit preference.
ETA: i meant to say use a smaller size for the shoulder/ neck and blend down since you liked the fit bust and below. Also make sure you are using a binding with good recovery, so that it isn't making your neckline grow! -- Edited on 3/5/12 11:22 PM -- ------ Raye Ann
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Skye
 Intermediate NEW ZEALAND Member since 8/24/02 Posts: 1633 |
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In reply to wenznz
Date: 3/6/12 0:52 AM I just sewed this top up this weekend and used my high bust to select the size for my top half waist down was 2 sizes bigger. I am a D cup and didn't have to do a FBA
------ Wellington, NZ |
Elizabeth made this

 Intermediate CO USA Member since 8/8/07 Posts: 469 |
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Date: 3/6/12 4:00 PM I use my full bust for Jalie patterns and don't have a problem (I'm a DD) and don't have to do an FBA. If it's gaping in the neck and feels really loose in the shoulders, I'd trace a smaller size in the shoulders and neck and then bump out to the size that you need at the bottom of the armscye. ------ emadethis.wordpress.com
Dare to do more. ~Natalie Dessay |
wenznz
 Advanced Beginner NEW ZEALAND Member since 7/8/11 Posts: 235 |
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Date: 3/6/12 9:23 PM Thanks for the replies.
Elizabeth and Skye - this was my thinking. I'll try this for my next iteration of this pattern, as I quite like the design.
Raye-Ann - thank you for sharing your experience. Pleased it wasn't just me :D
I may well try another Jalie top using my full bust measurement as this seems to have worked for most people, just to see if this pattern was a bit of a one off, but otherwise try the size merging for them too.
-- Edited on 3/6/12 9:26 PM -- ------ Wendy
Wellington, New Zealand |
Elizabeth made this

 Intermediate CO USA Member since 8/8/07 Posts: 469 |
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Date: 3/7/12 5:25 PM I did have to try a couple of sizes before I found one that worked for me. The first one didn't fit over my head! Keep at it--you'll figure it out. The reward is a for sure TNT. ------ emadethis.wordpress.com
Dare to do more. ~Natalie Dessay |