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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Comparing crotch curves ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Comparing crotch curves
how do you line them up?
SVN
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Date: 3/2/12 7:56 PM

I've just made a pattern from my favourite pair of jeans. The crotch curve is ENTIRELY different. I think the RTW jeans have a slightly dropped crotch point as compared to the Jalie pattern.
How should I line them up to compare them?
What I've done so far is to match them from the hem (they have the same inseam length). Is that right?

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In reply to SVN


Date: 3/6/12 9:33 AM

I am not sure you got an answer to this. I see you posted about pants in another thread. I think the length of the pant is irrelevant to the fit of the pant. You need to compare from the waist down (or a similar point). Jeans are a little tough because the back is normally 2 pieces. Check both crotch length and depth. I am finding that most patterns do not have enough crotch depth (across) so pants want to pull into my body giving me all kinds of weird wrinkles. Jeans of course fit tighter and you want that pulled in.

MNBarb
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Date: 3/6/12 1:31 PM

Thanks for this timely question. I've been stacking up different patterns that have worked/not worked to see what shape, depth, curve, etc is best for my shape and how they vary.

The pattern doesn't always note the intended distance between top of waistband and natural waist. It makes it difficult to know how to compare the rise of different patterns.

I'm feeling like, in my quest to become more knowledgeable, I might be getting more confused.


-- Edited on 3/6/12 2:02 PM --

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Barb
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loti
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Date: 3/6/12 2:14 PM

Try this, fold the pant leg in half, draw a perpendicular line from the crotch point, and line the pant legs up along this line.

The problem is that a fuller pant leg will naturally have a different crotch curve/depth than a more fitted pant like a jean, so the exercise will be better if you are comparing pants with the same fit.

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Date: 3/6/12 6:31 PM

Thank you for your replies. I had already muslined the pants (both jeans) and had some good advice to measure from my waist to the top of the pants on both. This gave me an idea of the distance at which to offset them.
I am still trying to make sense of the results. The RTW version back curve is practically a diagonal line, including a dip at the bottom. They fit fantastically, but I just don't get it!!

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Date: 3/6/12 9:01 PM

RTW stretch jeans seem to be quite diagonal and not very J curved from what I have seen. The jean draft has a pretty diagonal cb seam anyway and with the close fitting stretch style so much is taken off the inseams and crotch extensions.

I line up pants patterns at what I call the "turning point" and have the grain lines parallel. This turning point is where the cb starts the curve under the bum. In this blog post
P.S. I haven't forgotten about the other illustrations I promised you. Will get the scanner out of the garage soon!

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Date: 3/6/12 9:52 PM

Thanks Sewliz,
I had read somewhere else where you mentioned the turning point, so I was keen to do the same. That's what is so crazy about these... they literally don't turn! I posted a picture of the two patterns (although before I figured out how to offset them right) on the pants sew-a-long, if you're interested.

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In reply to Sewliz


Date: 3/6/12 10:32 PM

I looked again and I could see a slight curve, so I tried matching them up. I could, but the crease line was way off (by inches). Am I right to think the crease (centre) lines should match up?

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In reply to SVN


Date: 3/7/12 10:07 AM

The crease lines, as in the center of the leg, do not usually line up on top of each other but I put them parallel.

I'll bet the RTW pants you copied had a straight cb seam in it's original pattern but wearing the pants molds the fabric to our shape. Our bodies are like big three dimensional steam presses to our clothes.

ETA this image, is this the one you mean?


-- Edited on 3/7/12 10:12 AM --

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In reply to Sewliz


Date: 3/7/12 2:23 PM

Yep; the brown dashed lines is the RTW pattern. If I were to line up where the turning point is, I would find that the centre of the leg is far more to the outside (toward the hip) than the Jalie pattern. This sort of makes sense when I look at them on me - I think my legs are toward the outside on my body: click here

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