Member since 11/25/11
Date: 3/4/12 8:02 PM
I am a beginner sewer and I have been "petiting" the shoulder, sleeve, bodice length and area between my bust and neck/shoulder length. I am still unhappy with my necklines. They always droop then I end up taking it up in the shoulder. I did a google search but did not find anything about petiting necklines. Does anyone else have this problem? What should I be doing?
Thank you for your help,
Member since 1/4/11
Date: 3/5/12 0:07 AM
For necklines I just make sure that they are proportionate to the body. A lot of times this means that I'm raising the neckline and in some cases narrowing. If you can post a pic of what you're experiencing we can help you diagnose. Sounds like you have a fit problem that isn't petite specific.
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Member since 8/30/09
Date: 3/6/12 1:49 PM
When I had this problem, it was usually because of one of the following:
(1) My shoulders aren't the same angle as the pattern. My shoulders are straighter than most patterns, so I have to adjust.
(2) I had to make a smaller size with a full bust allowance (FBA).
Member since 6/24/06
In reply to dontknow
Date: 3/6/12 2:54 PM
Some of the styles have very narrow shoulders seams and a wide back neckline. This makes things come off the shoulders especially on knit wrap tops and styles with a deep V neck. Your shoulder slope has a huge effect on the fit of garments. Measure from shoulder to shoulder (maximum lenght of garment without sleeves falling off shoulders) measure from bra strap to bra strap minus 2" (this is the maximum neck opening you can have without fighting straps.) Unless the garment has a collar, there's nothing preventing you from tracing a smaller neckline, just keep it consistant to both front and back.
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Member since 8/26/07
Date: 3/6/12 7:26 PM
My necklines have always either drooped down in the back, hitting my rear and puddling like you would see with a swayback... or they pull forward and then droop to low in the front. This happens even after shortening above the bust and is due to an "erect upper back" (I do have a swayback as well). The length of the side seams is usually fine, but the center back length is always too long for me. I'm 5'1" and have a back neck to waist measurement of only 14".
Not sure if this is the same droop you're getting, but the pattern alteration I use to correct this can be seen here.
District of Columbia USA
Member since 5/10/06
Date: 3/6/12 8:30 PM
It may be that you are narrow between the shoulders and need to reduce the fabric at center front. Burda magazine occasionally drafts patterns that are intentionally too wide across the front neck so they fold/puddle a little (I don't understand it). It's evident on the model in this one and the version I made has the problem too.
Does that look like your problem?
You can take width out by taking a small tuck at center front--if you generally need to take in at the side seams as well this is good.
If the rest of the garment fits, you need to redraw the shoulder closer to the center front (and will likely have to alter the back piece as well). This is in addition to narrowing the shoulders and correcting for shoulder slope, if needed.
-- Edited on 3/6/12 8:35 PM --
2007: purchased 115+, sewed 105+
So close to parity, yet so far
Trying again in 2008
Yards purchased: 133
Yards sewn: Somewhere around 95
2009? I give up
Member since 7/16/07
In reply to dontknow
Date: 3/8/12 10:28 AM
I'm 5'1" -- my neck is size 12 and my shoulder width is even a few sizes smaller... but my pattern size is about 20. So to keep necklines from drooping I cut the neckline and shoulders in a much smaller size than the rest of my pattern. Then I taper between the sizes.
-- Edited on 3/8/12 10:29 AM --
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Image: me, about four decades ago