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Message Board > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Topstitching a stitch and fold-over neckband piece ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Topstitching a stitch and fold-over neckband piece
Am I set up correctly?
hazelnut
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hazelnut  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/5/12 5:19 PM

I'm trying to follow the directions for B5215 where you stitch the collar to the inside first and then fold the collar over to stitch on top (right side), as in the photos. I've never done this before and I'm afraid I won't be able to keep a straight line all around next to the inside folded seam humps. I have a ditch foot, but stink using it (and it looks like the blade would be on the opposite side of where I want to stitch anyway). I also have a walking foot, and I wonder if that would be better? This is the regular zigzag foot. The instructions are not very helpful.

The needle is in the fabric where I would start and try to hold the line as I go around. All suggestions welcome before I start/ruin this. Thanks

kkkkaty
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kkkkaty  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/5/12 5:32 PM

One thing I might suggest is moving your needle to the left, if you can. Effectively that moves the foot to the right (I am not suggesting putting the needle in a different part of the fabric, just adjusting the needle to the left so more of the foot is on the right). That way more of the foot will have contact with the raised part of the binding, and that will give you a bit more control.

I can see a little "air" under the foot, on the left, in the close up; more contact with the fabric gives more control.

I recently used my walking foot for some similar work, and was pretty happy with the results; not perfect, but better than I've had before.


-- Edited on 3/5/12 5:33 PM --

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Viking Lily 545
Viking Ruby
Bernina Activa 210
Brother 1034d

hazelnut
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In reply to kkkkaty


Date: 3/5/12 6:06 PM

Ha, I had to refer to my manual to see if I had a left & right needle position! I do, it's considered a stitch selection...and I was looking for a lever, like on a vintage machine. lol

Moving the needle left and shifting band the over a smidgen does settle the fabric under the zigzag foot much better, (I didn't see the air space until you pointed it out) but it also makes my vision of the edge worse with the long part of the foot blocking the view, so I am going to attach the walking foot with the left needle and see if that's not better. Thanks Kkkaty

sew2006
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sew2006
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In reply to hazelnut


Date: 3/5/12 6:30 PM

Did your machine come with a clear foot? Makes sewing easier when you need to see the edge of fabric.

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Janome10001, Babylock ESG3, Brother ULT 2001, White 634D serger, Pfaff 1472, Singer featherweight, Singer 14T957Dc, Bernina FunLock 009DCC coverlock, Brother PQ1500S, Janome CP900.

hazelnut
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In reply to kkkkaty


Date: 3/5/12 6:45 PM

Here's the finished neckline. This is a very stable French terry. I know the walking foot and needle left made this easier and straighter (it fed so much better -no slipping off) than it would have been had I proceeded as originally set up. I still had some trouble keeping it even around the more curved areas, but all in all I am very pleased with my first attempt with this type of neckline! I feared it would not have turned out this nice with the way I was set up after making my practice samples. Thanks again!

hazelnut
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In reply to sew2006


Date: 3/5/12 6:58 PM

No it didn't, but I purchased one. Lumpy/bumpy seams like this seem to slip around even more with the lighter-weight plastic foot. Could be because the front points do not extend as much, like on the zigzag foot, and it holds and presses down on less fabric underneath. I tried the clear foot a couple times when topstitching shoulder seams and had problems with it and the ditch foot. I think it's mostly my lack of sewing experience with the different seams and edges, etc. I'm still learning what to do and how to do it. A lot of firsts happening here.

kkkkaty
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Date: 3/5/12 7:24 PM

looks very good, congrats! I picked up a book in a used book store called "Fine Machine Sewing" (which mine is not, btw), she talks a lot about moving the needle so you're using as much of the foot as possible to hold and move the fabric. I had not really ever thought about that before, but it makes a lot of sense when you think about it....

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Viking Lily 545
Viking Ruby
Bernina Activa 210
Brother 1034d

hazelnut
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In reply to sew2006


Date: 3/5/12 8:35 PM

Hope I didn't sound unappreciative in my earlier post. I had just finished posting to kkkaty and as I was responding to yours, DH was walking through the door asking me about dinner so I rushed it. The clear foot does give excellent vision for seeing your needle and stitching, and thank you for suggesting it. I had trouble controlling it when going over seam ridges, so I kind of decided against using it before I read your post. I need to practice using all my feet while experimenting on seams and fabrics. I'm surprised at how different fabrics and feet affect each other. I'm learning. Thanks for your suggestion!

kkkkaty
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In reply to hazelnut


Date: 3/5/12 9:33 PM

That is so gracious!
-- Edited on 3/5/12 9:34 PM --

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Viking Lily 545
Viking Ruby
Bernina Activa 210
Brother 1034d

hazelnut
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In reply to kkkkaty


Date: 3/5/12 11:34 PM

I'll keep an eye out for that book - maybe my library will have it. Thanks
The top is washing now before I hem it. Barring any hemming screw-ups, it looks like a wearable muslin to me!

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