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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Underwhelmed With my last fitting trial ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Underwhelmed With my last fitting trial
Discovering I need even more adjustments than I thought!
Raye Ann
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Raye Ann  Friend of PR
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Member since 3/25/09
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Date: 3/6/12 5:47 PM

I have just completed Butterick 4985, which is my first go at a fitted woven blouse in a long while. I made a muslin, tried to " read the wrinkles", and adjust my pattern with my trusty Fit For Real People book.
I was really pleased at first, thinking that my broad back adjustment, full bust adjustment, and addition to the SA for a thicker waist was going to make the shirt perrrrfect. Umm, no! After putting the tie collar in place, I realized that the front shoulders are 1/2" too wide on each side, and that I actually ALSO have forward shoulders.
So, my new top fits pretty well in the back, but looks frumpy overall because the shoulders are too wide, with a puffy sleeve, no less!
It seams like I am going to have a really big issue with the shoulders if I want to try to get a better fit. I need 1" added to upper back, and 1" taken away from the front shoulders.
Does anyone else do these adjustments and have an idea on how the handle the shoulder seam?
Thanks!

-- Edited on 3/6/12 5:49 PM --

------
Raye Ann

AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/6/12 6:19 PM

Take a picture of yourself in the blouse and then post it and lots of the members will come along to help you figure out how to fix the problem.

Step away from the project for a few days then try it on again. A lot of times it will look a lot better after a few days.
-- Edited on 3/6/12 6:25 PM --

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Ada

SVN
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Date: 3/6/12 6:33 PM

I'd dart it out at the back shoulders. I'm guessing the breadth in your back is lower down.

a7yrstitch
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a7yrstitch  Friend of PR
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In reply to Raye Ann


Date: 3/6/12 6:34 PM

Upside down edit. Reading SVN's suggestion after my post, try pinning in a dart front and back on the shoulder line. The length of the back dart does not need to be equal to the length of the front dart. Also, the back dart can take out less fabric and you can ease in the extra so that the result is more will be taken out of the front than the back.
-----------------------------------------------
Reading about your adjustments, I'm a bit surprised about your outcome. Based on some sewing that I have done for the family, I have something you could try. How about tucking a dart at the front shoulder. If you add a dart there, imagine that you have a princess seam from shoulder line to the bottom of the blouse. I would align the shoulder dart on that imaginary line.

You have some other options. On the pattern diagram, the under bust area looks to have small tucks (or kind of big gathers). If there are small tucks there, you could combine fixes at the shoulder by trimming of as much fabric as is feasible and then adding in small tucks (or loose gathers) at the shoulder line to mimic the tucks under the bust. If you take this approach, try to mostly steam and not press; this should help draw the fabric in a bit instead of emphasizing the detail.

And, the final suggestion would be, again, trim off as much as is feasible, put in multiple gathering stitches on the shoulder line that will allow you to stitch in gathers that will be barely discernible after steaming. And, again, steaming more than pressing to help ease the fabric in.

I imagine that you are tracking the changes so you can make the adjustments to the front shoulder in the pattern next time. Great thing about this woven trial is that it is such a nice fitting garment that you'll be able to use the pattern and the alterations as a reference for many other woven top patterns.

Best wishes.
-- Edited on 3/6/12 6:37 PM --

------
I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

Raye Ann
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Raye Ann  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/6/12 6:55 PM

Thanks for the responses. I will try to put up some photos tonight...

I did pin out a dart on the finished shirt...it looked great in the front and a little weird in the back. It might be a good solution, though, to put in a front dart or gathers in the front only as it fits this design well. I will also be looking at the flat pattern pieces of another, more tailored pattern, to see if it will also have to be narrowed in the front.

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Raye Ann

SVN
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In reply to Raye Ann


Date: 3/6/12 8:03 PM

Why are the shoulders too wide at front? Is that from the FBA? Shouldn't you be tapering your increase to zero at the seam?

Raye Ann
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Raye Ann  Friend of PR
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In reply to SVN


Date: 3/6/12 11:45 PM

No, the FBA was small and only increased depth of empire seam Below bust point and tapered to original seam line. The extra side SA was only below the armholes.
I think I didn't notice it being wide during my muslin because I must have pulled the neck in too much( trying to estimate how the collar would sit).

I wasn't able to get any photos uploaded tonight...sure wish I knew how to upload straight from my phone.
-- Edited on 3/6/12 11:50 PM --

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Raye Ann

Kayabunga
Kayabunga  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/7/12 7:19 AM

Peggy Sagers did a webcast on fitting blouses ... I think it will really help you. If you go to her homepage ... silhouettepatterns.com and then click on "Past Webcasts" you'll find the blouse draping one. Her advice is invaluable.

JTink
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JTink
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Date: 3/7/12 9:20 AM

I don't quite understand the shoulder situation. Are you saying that the shoulders need to come forward and be narrowed? Not much you can do about the foward shoulder after it's made(could open the seam allowances a bit allowing more on the back and taking away from the front), but narrowing the shoulder would just mean shaving off a bit from the shoulder edge(removing the sleeve first) On the pattern piece, at the top of the shoulder, mark the amount to be removed(let's say an inch). Slice down between the two marks about 5 or 6 inches and over to the armhole, leaving a hinge at the armhole(will look like an L). At the shoulder, bring the two marks together and the entire L will move into place.

Raye Ann
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Raye Ann  Friend of PR
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Member since 3/25/09
Posts: 798
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In reply to JTink


Date: 3/7/12 12:16 PM

Thank you, that was a good description.
I have put the shirt on today and see that indeed, my back broadness starts a couple of inches down from the true shoulder. That will make it much easier to blend the front and back shoulder pieces.
I think I am going to adjust my pattern pieces and just make a new shirt!
This one wrinkled so horribly in the wash and was so difficult to iron that I don't think it would see much use, anyway.
Thanks all! I will be sure to review the pattern, with photos of muslin, versions 1 and 2 when I finish.

------
Raye Ann

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