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Forum > Fitting Woes > 2" swayback ? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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2" swayback ?
Weird !
RoseFromThule
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RoseFromThule
FRANCE
Member since 3/3/10
Posts: 454
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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Date: 3/7/12 4:17 AM

Seing stuck in a sewing rut, I got into my head to have a look at swayback alterations. I always get a lot of wrinkles at the bottom of the back, in RTW or home-sewn garments, so I played around with some of my otherwise best-fitting dresses, pinned the excess and had an average measure of the full fold.
My measure yield a 2" excess in the lower back.
This seems way too much for a swayback alteration - The most I've see in Internet tutorial is 5/8" to 1", tops.

So, should I really do a 2" swayback alteration or is it something else entirely ? I'm 5'11, can it be that I need a "bigger" alteration, since I'm taller than average ?
I have a fairly straight stance, but my spine does have a somewhat "S" shape.

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Meet me at : prettycrocodile.blogspot.com

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
New South Wales Australia
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Date: 3/7/12 5:41 AM

I have done quite a lot of custom sewing and I can safely say that if this sway back alteraition fixes your problem and does not cause any others, then don't look any further, 2 inches it is

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Shellia

Shellia
International CANADA
Member since 1/10/05
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Subject: 2 swayback ? Date: 3/7/12 8:17 AM

Personaly, my average sba is a 6/8 tuck for a dress (yields 1 and 1/4 inch removed). Depends very much on style and material of the dress. Can be as little as 1/4 of an inch or as much as 2 1/2 inches.

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No matter how little money and how few possessions you own,
having a dog makes you rich.

RoseFromThule
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RoseFromThule
FRANCE
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Posts: 454
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Date: 3/7/12 9:29 AM

Thank you ... I guess I'll take things slowly, and begin with 1" swayback alteration. I may have been a bit too enthusiastic when pinching fabric, after all. Then I will refine the fit.

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stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue  Friend of PR
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Subject: 2 swayback ? Date: 3/7/12 4:14 PM

Oh, yes--you don't want to "overfit!" You want to retain some design/wearing ease, after all. :)

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~Gem in the prairie

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
New South Wales Australia
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Date: 3/8/12 9:47 PM

Let the hem guide you - if the hem is horizontal, then the tuck is right. If it goes up - too much, if it heads south - not enough.

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Goldilox
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Goldilox
JAMAICA
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In reply to RoseFromThule <<


Date: 3/13/12 11:45 AM

I once though 2 inches was excessive but it turns out to be the perfect amount for me. I started out with 1 inch on my shirt toile and ended up taking in another inch after the fitting and it didn't alter anything else about the fit... it's now a standard for me.
The only other thing for me to do was add back those 2 inches to the hem or trim the font hem to match
-- Edited on 3/13/12 11:49 AM --

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Niki

solosmocker
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solosmocker
New York USA
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Subject: 2 swayback ? Date: 3/13/12 8:18 PM

Make sure you have enough hip room before taking this swayback tuck. Often puddles of fabric appear when the hem sits on the hips where it fits. Further down is too wide so it all rides up. If you let out your side seams up to the waist and let them fall where they may, then add any additional space needed to them, you may find you don't need a swayback adjustment at all or maybe one not so large. I do both, let out the hips and a swayback. Always do the hips first. You will be amazed at the difference it can make.

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Silknmore
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Silknmore  Friend of PR
Wisconsin USA
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Date: 3/13/12 11:02 PM

You're in good company as I make at least a 2" swayback adjustment. When fitting pants I've learned that the front and back are 2 different systems. As long as the side seam is in the right place, I adjust the front for my nice round stomach until it fits with some wearing ease. Then I work on the sway back until it hugs my back. It works every time.

Good luck.
Annette

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Silknmore
http://fabricateandmira.wordpress.com/

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