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A Horizontal Dart on the Back of my Shirt!
Burda 7198
bakertoo
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bakertoo
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Date: 3/8/12 12:32 PM

I am making a muslin of this pattern, Burda 7198, a cute shirt I am looking forward to wearing for summer, and have come across a sewing mystery to me. The shirt has a horizontal dart on the back of the shirt, the and I have no idea why. The placement of the dart is just about level with the lower tips of my shoulder blades. There is also a yoke on the back of the shirt. I get that maybe it is a fitting dart, but it seems such a strange place to me, and I am wondering why it is placed there. Or is it a fashion thing?!

Do any of you long time sewists have an answer as to why the dart is on the back, what its purpose is, and if the dart weren't at that particular spot, where would it have been moved from.

Thank You!

karen149
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karen149  Friend of PR
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In reply to bakertoo


Date: 3/8/12 12:43 PM

You may want to post this question in the Fitting Woes or Patterns and Notions forum to get an answer....unless you have a machine that's making odd darts while you sleep.

bakertoo
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Date: 3/8/12 12:49 PM

I see what you mean. I didn't think about the subject area! I don't think I know how to move it, other than rewriting it. Do you know how I would do that?

karen149
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Date: 3/8/12 4:11 PM

A moderator may come along and move it or you can start a new topic in the other forum.

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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Date: 3/8/12 9:42 PM

I found this pattern and I can't see the dart you are talking about. Maybe I am looking at another pattern? Having yoke and shoulder dart makes no sence, because shoulder dart is usually transferred into the yoke

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redhead
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Date: 3/9/12 7:41 AM

I don't see the dart either. I think Burda is experimenting with a new design element, though. I bought this pattern, because I thought the shaping was so intriguing. It has that upper back dart also.

burda dress/ top with upper back dart
-- Edited on 3/9/12 7:49 AM --

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to bakertoo


Date: 3/9/12 8:12 AM

Bizarre... I see the dart you're talking about, and the vertical one as well, unless that's some sort of a seam. I'd agree with the previous poster that this might be a design change. To me, it serves no function, but if it were to serve a fitting function, I think two vertical darts would be better suited. Maybe Burda is doing this for people with high round backs? Because if you have a HRB, you have to place a fisheye dart at CB, tapering to nothing outward.

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EleanorSews
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Subject: Topic moved Date: 3/9/12 8:30 AM

This topic has been moved from Sewing Machines to Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting

ETA: Hopefully this is a better forum to post this question since it does deal with how a pattern is drafted.
-- Edited on 3/9/12 8:31 AM --

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nicegirl
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Date: 3/9/12 9:37 AM

That is intriguing. I wonder if it is a swayback type adjustment? Burda generally drafts their backs with the CB seam as a straight line, so I don't think they're concerned about swayback. But pulling the fabric up at the upper back would help correct for having a straight-cut piece of fabric meant to cover a curved part of the anatomy. It's probably just a design detail, though.

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Date: 3/9/12 10:43 AM

Thank You, Eleanorsews, for posting this in the right area. I see now how to post something in the correct place!

I didn't see the dart on the pattern package either, when I bought it. Interestingly though, the drawing shows something that looks like a bit of gathering up at the bottom edge of the yoke, but no horizontal dart!
Now that I have the muslin put together, and look at the dart, it isn't really very flattering, and does look misplaced. I think I will take it out, and see if it will be alright without it. If it is a design element, it might be just fine without it. What do you of the idea? I guess if it seems kind of wonky, I could do a little gathering at the yoke, like the drawing on the package!

Thank you for all your helpful input. I'll let you know what happens. I know a photo would help, and I will try to do that. I am technically challenged in that way!

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