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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > sleeves and surefit designs

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sleeves and surefit designs
Calendria
Calendria  Friend of PR
Alaska USA
Member since 7/4/05
Posts: 621
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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Date: 3/11/12 4:48 AM

okay, I have been working on my surefit desingn muslin draft on and off for months now. Well, now I have read how sleeve cap ease is bogus.

How exactly do i apply the NO sleeve cap ease AND enlarge it for a larger upper arm?

I'm confused and soooo frusterated.

also, could I just copy off the shape of the armhole or something?

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
New South Wales Australia
Member since 2/5/09
Posts: 622
Skill: Expert/Couture
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Date: 3/11/12 4:57 AM

Haha, I know EXACTLY where you have read itNo, you need sleeve cap ease, it was proven too many times. Depending on the fabric you'll need more or less, but you need it, absolutely.

------
www.iconicpatterns.com

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
New South Wales Australia
Member since 2/5/09
Posts: 622
Skill: Expert/Couture
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Date: 3/11/12 5:10 AM

Here is my little videoto show you what happens when there is not enough ease at sleeve cap

------
www.iconicpatterns.com

Calendria
Calendria  Friend of PR
Alaska USA
Member since 7/4/05
Posts: 621
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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Date: 3/11/12 5:14 AM

well now how do I "ease" it cuz no matter what i get gathers and puckers and it just doesn't look nice

Calendria
Calendria  Friend of PR
Alaska USA
Member since 7/4/05
Posts: 621
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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Date: 3/11/12 5:14 AM

oh and thanx for the video

Calendria
Calendria  Friend of PR
Alaska USA
Member since 7/4/05
Posts: 621
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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Date: 3/11/12 5:15 AM

what exactly was the difference? i couldn't see it as well cuz of the fabric

Nursebennett
Nursebennett
Alabama USA
Member since 1/7/10
Posts: 149
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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In reply to Calendria


Date: 3/11/12 8:44 AM

Glenda from Sure-Fit Designs can and will help you endlessly. She will even Skype with you to see your problems.

Calendria
Calendria  Friend of PR
Alaska USA
Member since 7/4/05
Posts: 621
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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Date: 3/11/12 4:19 PM

i know that. but sleeves have been a serious issue here and I'm just not sure if there isn't SOmE truth to "cap sleeve is bogus" or something like that.

Calendria
Calendria  Friend of PR
Alaska USA
Member since 7/4/05
Posts: 621
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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Date: 3/11/12 4:55 PM

could I possibly use petite plus 101 along with surefit designs and use it to create my sloper pattern, because it has most of the alterations I'd need to make : a d cup, small shouklderds, short waist, I'd just need to adjust my bust point location and possibly my upper arm for arm adjustment.

ideas?

mastdenman
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mastdenman  Friend of PR
California USA
Member since 1/12/04
Posts: 6201
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 3/11/12 10:23 PM

I'm no expert on pattern drafting, but to have zero ease on a sleeve cap, the shoulder needs to be extended and probably a shoulder pad inserted. In PMB I try to stick to around 1 inch sleeve cap ease. The program defaults to about 1.67 inches, which is too difficult to ease in. You can bast from where the little arrow is normally on the bodice and sleeve, around to the other side. Then draw up the thread until the fabric is tighter, but doesn't pucker. It takes a little practice.

------
Marilyn

January 2009 to January 2010 81 yards out and 71yards in January 2010 to the present 106.7 yards out and 146.5 yards in. January 2011 to the present: 47 yards out and 69 yards in.

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