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Burda Plus 11-2011-136B
pattern directions help
sewingformeWP
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sewingformeWP
Intermediate
BRAZIL
Member since 11/13/08
Posts: 84
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Date: 3/12/12 11:20 AM

I just picked up the 11/2011 issue in Brazil (don't know why it was still on the newsstands) and I want to make these pants. Unfortunately its in Portuguese and Google Translate isn't very good with sewing terms. If you have the English edition with this pattern could you read through it and give me a summary version of the directions? Are there any odd bits? I would really appreciate the help!

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Learning Couture in Rio de Janeiro
sewingforme.wordpress.com

sleeping wolf
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sleeping wolf
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United Kingdom
Member since 1/4/11
Posts: 35
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In reply to sewingformeWP


Date: 3/13/12 7:14 AM

Hi Sewingforme
These are the instructions for the Jersey version. Hope they help.
136 B Trousers ••
Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, p. 46
Side length 105 cm Upper edge of waistband = waist Hem circumference 37 cm
Materials:
Heavy jersey, 150 cm (59 ins) wide: 1.70 - 1.90-1.90-1.90-2.10 m. A piece of rib knit fabric 10 x 25 cm, for the bands. Vilene/Pellon G 785. 1 invisible zip, 22 cm (9 ins) long, and a special presser foot. A twin sewing machine needle.
Recommended fabrics: Heavy jersey.
Preparation:
Trace the pattern pieces from the pattern sheet. Follow lines and de­tails for style 136 B. Lengthen pieces 1 and 3 as indicated. Trace the pocket piece from piece 2, to the abutting line.
Seam and hem allowances: Seams and edges 1.5 cm (5/s in), hem 5 cm (2 ins). Flare hem allowances.
Cutting out: Jersey:
1 front trouser piece 2x
2 side hip yoke with
integrated pocket piece 2x
pocket piece 2x
3 back trouser piece 2x
4 front waistband, on a fold 2x
5 back waistband, on a fold 2x
Rib knit fabric:
2 bands (pocket opening), 19 - 19.5 - 20 - 20.5 - 21 cm long, 2 cm wide, finished width 1 cm.
Interfacing: See pattern layout. In­terface outer waistband pieces. Also interface the pocket bands.
Construction:
• Fold pleats in front trouser pieces in direction of arrows and baste. Stitch back darts and press toward centre back.
• Stitch centre front seam, approx. 15 cm long, beginning at up­per edge. Press seam open.
• Hip yoke pockets: Fold bands in half lengthwise, right side facing out, and press. Baste long edges of each band together to pocket open­ing edge of front trouser piece. Stitch pocket pieces right sides to­gether with pocket opening edges, over bands. Turn pocket pieces upand stitch to seam allowances, close to seams. Turn pocket pieces to in­side, turn bands up, and press. Pin pocket opening edges of front trouser pieces to side hip yokes so that band joining seam lies on abut­ting line. Stitch pocket pieces to­gether. Stitch front edges of pocket pieces right sides together (centre seam). Press seam allowances open. Baste pockets to wrong side of front trouser pieces.
• Stitch right side seam and inside leg seams. Press seam allowances open. Stitch remaining centre front seam and centre back seam as con­tinuous seam. In back, press allow­ances of the centre seam open, from upper edge to beginning of crotch curve. Do not press seam allowances flat along crotch curve.
• Stitch right side seams on waistband pieces (seams on inner and outer
waistband unit as mirror images). Stitch interfaced outer waistband unit to upper edge of trousers. Press seam allowances of joining seam onto waistband.
• Sew invisible zip to slit edges, from upper edge of waistband to slit mark. Stitch left side seam up to zip.
• Face upper edge of waistband, see style 136A, but pin and baste in­stead of using paper clips and glue to hold edges and allowances in place. Do not topstitch waistband. Work from right side of trousers to stitch along joining seam, catching inside edge of waistband.
• Turn hem allowances to inside. Work from right side of fabric and use the twin needle to stitch each hem 4 cm from lower edge.

These are on my to make list so I'd love to see a review if you make them up.

sewingformeWP
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sewingformeWP
Intermediate
BRAZIL
Member since 11/13/08
Posts: 84
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Date: 3/13/12 8:19 AM

thanks so much! I already have the pattern traced and the material pretreated! I'll be posting my review soon!

------
Learning Couture in Rio de Janeiro
sewingforme.wordpress.com

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