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Forum > Fitting Woes > Extra fabric line from armscye towards bust ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Extra fabric line from armscye towards bust
I must need another pattern alteration
cosmoe
cosmoe
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Date: 3/14/12 3:59 PM

I have been sewing for a few years, and I feel like I am getting better at finding and addressing fit issues. My standard alterations for tops are a FBA (C cup) and forward shoulder alteration, and I recently realized that I probably need a broad back adjustment as well (although I have yet to try this alteration out). The issue is that even when I make my standard alterations, or use one of the patterns with different fronts for different sizes, I end up with extra fabric starting in the middle of the arm curve and pointing towards my bust. It looks like I should take a dart out, but I have no idea what causes it or what the standard alteration would be. I have found this in all of the Big 4 patterns, including coats and sleeveless tops.

lca
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lca  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/14/12 4:13 PM

It sounds like you need a bigger FBA or cup size. To see if this is true, pinch a bigger bust dart and see if this goes away If your top is riding up in front and you have enough width, increase your cup size (rather than doing a bigger FBA) by slashing a horizontal cut from side to side and thru the bust points. This will give you a bigger dart for a bigger cup size.


-- Edited on 3/14/12 4:19 PM --

hazelnut
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In reply to lca


Date: 3/14/12 4:51 PM

I'm not cosmoe, and I hope she doesn't mind my digging deeper on her question, but I have been suffering with this same problem.

Quote:
If your top is riding up in front and you have enough width, increase your cup size (rather than doing a bigger FBA) by slashing a horizontal cut from side to side and thru the bust points. This will give you a bigger dart for a bigger cup size. .
lca, could you please explain this in more detail? I'm not sure I understand the difference between a bigger dart/cup size and a bigger FBA - I thought they were one of the same (which could explain a lot my struggling with FBA's). You slash across the entire pattern to lengthen it after making the FBA to give you more cup size? But you always need a bust dart to start with, right? thanks
-- Edited on 3/14/12 4:52 PM --
homewerk
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homewerk  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/14/12 5:31 PM

I consistently have this problem when trying to fit a bodice (except for Cutting Line Design patterns). In my case, the gaping armhole and extra fabric creating a line/wrinkle pointing to my bust results from the combination of a narrow chest and a full bust. If you think this describes your body type, you can do a couple of things. You can create an armhole dart to take up the excess fabric or you can tuck out the excess fabric by pinning out a vertical tuck on your muslin from the shoulder seam straight down ending ABOVE your bust line. If this seems to fix the problem you can then alter your pattern to narrow the chest area above the bust.

When I get home this evening, I'll check my fitting book which describes the alteration better than I have.

This is one of the reasons that I have decided to create a bodice sloper using the Sure Fit Designs system. I'll be working on it this weekend. Once I have my sloper incorporating my short waist, full bust, narrow chest etc I'll be able to modify any commercial pattern before cutting a muslin. The sloper will also have a sleeve that will fit the altered armscye so I don't have to futz with it over and over.

------
Becky (I'm homewerk on Pinterest too!)
1969 Bernina Record 730, Babylock Elizabeth, Brother 1034D Serger, Babylock Coverstitch, Grandmother's 1931 Singer 15-
91, 1956 Singer 401a Slant-O-Matic, 1954 Elna Supermatic,
pink Atlas Supermatic.

goodworks1
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Date: 3/14/12 5:48 PM

Without seeing the problem (in real life or even a photo) I'd suggest folding out the dart that forms and rotating it into the side dart.

You might also consider whether your bust is lower (or maybe even higher) than the pattern's bust point. This could be an easier fix....

------
blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com

Nursebennett
Nursebennett
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In reply to homewerk


Date: 3/14/12 5:54 PM

Quote:
This is one of the reasons that I have decided to create a bodice sloper using the Sure Fit Designs system. I'll be working on it this weekend. Once I have my sloper incorporating my short waist, full bust, narrow chest etc I'll be able to modify any commercial pattern before cutting a muslin. The sloper will also have a sleeve that will fit the altered armscye so I don't have to futz with it over and over.
Would you believe this is the ONLY thing I've done with my SureFit Designs Kits. I bought them all for JUST that reason! I've used my SureFit "body blueprint" to alter commercial patterns. it's working like a charm! I can't say enough good things about SureFit Designs. When I retire I am so looking forward to having time to actually create my own designs with the kits.
homewerk
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Date: 3/14/12 10:03 PM

Nursebennett, Glad to hear you've had success with Sure-Fit Designs. Like you, I won't be doing much designing until I retire. Right now just trying to get efficient at sewing blouses and tops to wear to work.

Cosmoe, Sandra Betzina describes how to adjust for a narrow upper chest in her book "Fast Fit" p. 182. Basically you draw a horizontal line from the bottom of the armhole to about halfway toward center front. Then draw 2 vertical lines from the center of the shoulder to the horizontal line, spaced apart the amount you need to take out. Cut across on the horizontal line to the line closest to center front and fold out the excess, bringing the 2 lines together. You would have to add the amount you fold out back to the front of the sleeve piece. Sounds complicated but if this is your fitting problem it makes a nice djustment without affecting the bust.

------
Becky (I'm homewerk on Pinterest too!)
1969 Bernina Record 730, Babylock Elizabeth, Brother 1034D Serger, Babylock Coverstitch, Grandmother's 1931 Singer 15-
91, 1956 Singer 401a Slant-O-Matic, 1954 Elna Supermatic,
pink Atlas Supermatic.

schmammy
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schmammy  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/14/12 10:45 PM

I'm reading these comments with interest! 2012 is the year I WILL master (improve?) fitting and pattern altering. Right now I'm sewing the second shirt from McCall's 6076, View A. Getting these princess seams to fit has been a major challenge. I must have great bras because at 60-years of age I think I may need to raise the bust fullness! Braless, lowering it would be a no-brainer. (Is anyone else finding this to be true?) At the end of March, I'm taking my first online sewing class, FBA/SBA with Sarah Veblen, which I'm counting on helping me fix the extra fabric above the bust.
FWIW, I discovered a wonderful tutorial on sewing princess seams by Kenneth King on Threads. The difference between the seams on my second shirt are incredibly better than the first.

------
Indecision may or may not be my problem. -Jimmy Buffet

http://chihuahuaonmylap.blogspot.com/

lca
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In reply to hazelnut <<


Date: 3/15/12 4:25 PM

A FBA will add width, length and a bigger dart for a bigger cup size. See A cup size increase (by slashing hortizontally across the bodice) will not add any more width or length, only a bigger dart for a bigger cup size. I can't find that diagram right now. If you need more width, but do not need a cup size bigger than a B, do the pivot and slide method for patterns from the big 4.

hazelnut
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In reply to lca <<


Date: 3/15/12 7:35 PM

Your link is a little difficult to view with my browser for some reason, but the page diagrams look very much like the Palmer Pletsch FBA. I need to add both width and larger cup size to any pattern I've tried. The cup size box is interesting. I wish I could somehow print out that page.

I really feel like I'm hijacking cosmoe's thread now - I'd love further info, but I want to play by the rules too. Maybe it would be best for me to start another topic. Much thanks!

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