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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Back crotch adjustment for flat rear end ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Back crotch adjustment for flat rear end
For my husband's pants
TanyaMT
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TanyaMT  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/16/12 6:25 PM

So I've finally got my own fit issues pretty much down. DH wants some pants that fit too now, and he has exactly the opposite problem. His RTW pants all bag and sag in the rear end, especially dress pants. Like inches and inches of excess fabric.

After reviewing reviews that people complain Burda men's pants are built for guys with no rear ends, that of course is what I have chosen for him.

On measuring though I still have a crotch curve for his size that is 2 inches too long (he needs 12 inches front, 14 rear). You can tell by his curve there he has very little rear end, tall and thin. For myself I "scoop" the curve to increase it rather than adding to it by cutting the adjustment line as it works better for me. For him - Is it better in general to decrease the slope of the curve or to cut through the adjustment line and overlap it to take out the necessary adjustment (leaving the hip attached/unchanged and hinging the piece down as I don't need to adjust that)? Or do both as I have to achieve 2 inches difference?
-- Edited on 3/16/12 6:25 PM --
-- Edited on 3/16/12 6:26 PM --

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My sewing blog: weebeaks.blogspot.com

creative1
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creative1
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In reply to TanyaMT <<


Date: 3/16/12 6:48 PM

I just finished Altering Pants with Angela Wolf successfully. For the class I cut muslin using Burda pattern, size 38 for side seams, and size 42 for the crotch, bc my fabric was stretchy. You do not have to use the same size for all seams when you copy the pattern. With full rear use a bigger size for the crotch, and opposite for the flat one.

TanyaMT
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TanyaMT  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/16/12 7:20 PM

He is already a 38 though (by hip measurement), and the pattern only goes to a 36 on the small end. Keeping the 36 line and tapering into the 38 at the waist decreases the curve by only a fraction of a inch.

I will have to either flatten it more outside the pattern lines by changing the slope/scoop, or by the wedge cutout. I'm just not sure what is best to get rid of as much excess fabric as I can as a starting point. The excess in RTW is not only in the center near the back seam but where his butt cheeks would be if he had any, and that is what I'm trying to fit.

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koo104
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koo104
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Date: 3/17/12 12:17 PM

the way I learned from the tailors at Nordstrom when I was an assistant in the alterations shop. They would pinch out horizontally under the bum the amount needed for the pant to hang smooth. Then that amount is taken out in a few different areas. I used to have an image in my profile here, let me see if I can find it. It is much easier to see then to explain.

koo104
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Date: 3/17/12 12:34 PM

I can't find the image and the floor is ripped up in my sewing room from a hot water heater flood last weekend. So I won't be able to access it for a day or so. I will try to explain.
One the back pant panel
Say you pined out 1" parallel to the floor under the seat during fitting.
you would narrow the back leg from crotch 1" blending down to 0" at knee. You shorten the rise at top waist the same and blend to 0" at side waist.
Now you re draw the crotch curve.
This is called the hip thrust forward posture in tailoring books. The oposite is the Stout or hip back. (sway back) in women's terms.
I hope this makes sense.

TanyaMT
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TanyaMT  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/17/12 1:24 PM

I think I'm following, at least the part about narrowing the pant leg at the top tapering to the knee to decrease the fullness under the seat.

You are saying take out at the top before attaching the waistband at the crotch. Is this because the pants are already made in alterations so that is the only place you can, or is there a benefit to removal there instead of at the horizontal alteration line marked on the pattern (which is about mid hip on the pattern)?

Thank you for the terms. I'll try a search with those terms too to get a visual.

I also ordered Coffin's pant's fitting book from Amazon. I ordered it for tips on waistband, welt pocket and fly construction, but I'm hoping for fitting tips too in the book. I'm used to fly construction for me, but this pattern is different from what I have made before. Burda instructions leave much to be desired when encountering a new technique.

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My sewing blog: weebeaks.blogspot.com

koo104
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Date: 3/17/12 2:11 PM

Hi Tanya,
I was able to get to the tailoring book and took some photos of the pages. It is the same for ready made or making from a pattern.
The illustration of the fit problems are very clear. I am not a full member so I can't upload the photos. PM me with a email address I can send them to and I will.

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