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Want to increase size of a pattern
What's the best way?
heathergwo
heathergwo
California USA
Member since 11/14/11
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Date: 3/17/12 3:21 PM

Hello!

I am currently making a pattern (it's a jacket, but I don't think that matters as I would do this to several patterns I have) and it only goes up to a certain size and I want to add at least one, maybe two sizes to it to fit me better (and no, the pattern doesn't come in that larger size). Should I just add the xtra sizes on in the areas where there is a size difference and just add that much on the outside. For example, if there's a 1/4 inch difference between size 20-22 on the pattern and I'm trying to make a 24, then I just add another 1/4" onto the cut before I make it?

Is it that simple? Or will I run into problems down the line if I do this? Is there another way to go about this?

Any help/advice is greatly appreciated!!

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Babylock Enlighten
Singer Curvy 8763
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JTink
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JTink
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In reply to heathergwo <<


Date: 3/17/12 4:23 PM

That sounds like the right plan to me

marjoriekh
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marjoriekh
Virginia USA
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Date: 3/17/12 4:30 PM

Threads has an online article on pattern grading: Making sense of pattern grading.

If you're only going up one size, you may be able to do it by guesswork, comparing the amount of increase in various places to the next smaller size.

However, the cut and spread method described in the Threads article seems more reliable.

To determine how far to spread, here's the Threads Quick reference for cut and spread pattern grading.

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marjoriekh

heathergwo
heathergwo
California USA
Member since 11/14/11
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In reply to marjoriekh <<


Date: 3/17/12 5:29 PM

Thanks!!! The links are great!

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Brother Innovis 1250D
Babylock Enlighten
Singer Curvy 8763
Brother 1034D
Janome 385.19606
Brother 2340CV

arianamaniacs
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arianamaniacs  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/18/12 6:44 AM

If you have one, you can also try laying over a similar jacket pattern that you know already fits you well and see how they fit up to the new pattern pieces

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rmusic1
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rmusic1
UNITED KINGDOM
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Date: 3/18/12 11:55 AM

I am 3 different sizes at different parts of my body, and in order to get my shoulders and bust to fit, I sometimes find myself stuck with an envelope that only fits hals of me, as the size needed for the rest of me is in the next packet. I am not willing to spend the money on buying a second pattern (Vogue in the UK is WAY too expensive to do that).

So, I have had to guestimate grade up in order to get things to fit. Like you said, it really is as simple as adding the different between two sizes (or doubling that if, like in my case, you are two sizes bigger) where there is a difference.

If you look at the pattern there are some lines with no difference between them. I'd leave them be as they are normally at points in the item where adding extra fabric would not be a good idea.

I've happily used this method in a skirt, slip, dress and am now doing this to a jacket too. One tip, do remember to adjust any markings as well otherwise it will be confusing later on when trying to match everything up!

sew2006
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sew2006
Ontario CANADA
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In reply to heathergwo <<


Date: 3/18/12 2:04 PM

Some areas of a pattern in a larger size actually go down/lower (neckline/underarm/hem) to create a larger size. CF/CB is not graded. Trace off the largest size available for your pattern. In all areas where the pattern is multi size draw a diagonal line throught the grade points. Draw a little arrow as a reminder if the pattern grade goes up (shoulder) down (neckline/Hem). If the pattern is multi size, and you need to go up 2 sizes nest 2 sizes smaller on original pattern under the largest size you traced. Keep grainlines parrallel. Use a different color marker and trace the larger size. By using this method for sleeves you will maintain the patterns ration (underarm has less than sleeve top and tapers. Once traced blend back to the diagonal lines this will increase your shoulder seams.

You will have to keep moving your pattern nest for each step, line up neckline and trace. Re-allign shoulderseam nest and trace, then under arm seam, than side seam, then hem.

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Janome10001, Babylock ESG3, Brother ULT 2001, White 634D serger, Pfaff 1472, Singer featherweight, Singer 14T957Dc, Bernina FunLock 009DCC coverlock, Brother PQ1500S, Janome CP900.

a7yrstitch
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a7yrstitch  Friend of PR
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In reply to marjoriekh <<


Date: 3/20/12 8:48 PM

Adding future search term.

patterngradingthread

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Sana
Sana
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In reply to heathergwo <<


Date: 3/22/12 4:56 PM

IreneQ had a great tip on on how to grade up or down one size, "quick and dirty": see here. I have used this to go up two sizes, and it works.

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"Once abolish the God, and the government becomes the God." (G. K. Chesterton)

Sufiya
Sufiya
Ontario CANADA
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Date: 3/25/12 2:43 PM

The rule of thumb for jacket pattern sizing is to choose one that fits you in the shoulders right off the bat, because that is the most difficult and complicated fitting adjustment. For pants, I think it's the hips. I was going to point you to the excellent Threads fitting articles as well, but I see people have beaten me to it!

I also recommend making a muslin of the jacket to check and adjust the fit before cutting into your fashion fabric. A bit of a hassle but well worth it! Muslin doesn't have to be expensive; I use old sheets I pick up at thrift stores. The advice to take measurements off a jacket that fits you well already is also a good idea; a back is pretty much a back and for me at least, this is always where I run into problems with jacket fit (that and length; I am a good inch and a half longer in the waist than the 16 inches of back waist length that seems to be the standard!)

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