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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Need help with fitting issue ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Need help with fitting issue
Can't move arms
GlynisA
GlynisA
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BC CANADA
Member since 3/9/10
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Date: 3/17/12 9:54 PM

I have made this top for my daughter, did a 1" fba which seems to fit fine through the bust. But once I put the sleeves in she can't lift her arms as the top is pulling across the upper bust line.

Oh fitting experts what is the cause of this?

click here
-- Edited on 3/17/12 10:43 PM --

a7yrstitch
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a7yrstitch  Friend of PR
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In reply to GlynisA <<


Date: 3/17/12 10:43 PM

I just bumped a thread for you in the Beginner's section.

Beginner's Forum > Help! Sleeves!

Same issue with arm ,movement.

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I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

GlynisA
GlynisA
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In reply to a7yrstitch <<


Date: 3/17/12 10:52 PM

Thanks a 7yrstitch. I read that other thread and don't seem to have the answer yet. I am pretty sure the armsyce (sp?) needs to be raised but I have never done this before so am not sure the steps to take. And for some reason I cannot find an answer to this when I 'google' it or check all my fitting books. I have added a picture so hopefully that will help someone visualize my problem.

Fictionfan
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Fictionfan  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/17/12 10:54 PM

If I understand the problem from your description, your daughter has no pulling when her arms are at her sides, but when she moves her arms, the body of the garment is moving with the sleeve movement. For the arm in a sleeve to move freely without pulling at the body of the garment, the armhole needs to be as close to the body as it can be and still get the upper extremity in the sleeve. Try raising the underarm or redrawing the armscye seam line to be a smaller opening. If you cut the armhole too big and there is not enough fabric to work with to bring the seam closer to her body, you could add a gusset to allow more movement at the underarm.

Perhaps you could post a picture that shows the pull lines?

The resurgence of 80's styles with huge armholes that have lowered underarm seam lines means that a lot of tops are going to pull unless the sleeves have a lot of extra ease or the body of the garment is very loose.

------
Fictionfan

GlynisA
GlynisA
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In reply to Fictionfan <<


Date: 3/17/12 11:22 PM

I do believe I have to raise the underarm. I have just never done it before so not sure about making the adjustment on the sleeve as well. I do have a picture on there now.

GlynisA
GlynisA
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In reply to GlynisA <<


Date: 3/17/12 11:31 PM

So I removed the sleeves and had her try on the bodice again. When I stuck a ruler up in her armpit there was a full 1" difference between that and the edge of the garment 1 1/2" if you include the stitching line. there was that same gap at the front of the garment where it pulls. So I am guessing raising the sides and adjusting the front of the garment a bit wider into the armhole? (If that makes sense) I think it is a touch narrow in the back as well.

wendyrb
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Date: 3/18/12 0:47 AM

Your garment looks really nice! I am by no means an expert, but will offer what I've just learned. I took the bodice fitting class with Sarah Veblen. I too made a FBA and the torso was much improved. My sleeve was restricting too, perhaps for different reasons, but here's food for thought.

The picture looks like there is little ease on the cap. The sleeve looks like it is resting up against the body at the head of the sleeve/top of the cap. From what I see you need more room there North/South and also maybe East/West for the bicep. Sarah suggests 2" of ease over the bicep size. If the sleeve is lacking ease, putting your arms up to drive a car is tough. Besides working on the sleeve, if there is a center back seam, you can release that to gain some space.

To focus on the sleeve:

1) Sarah had us make the garment without the sleeve and really get the armhole relating well to our bodies before any sleeve work.

2) Yes, for a fitted garment with mobility, the armhole should be higher up than you might think. And also, the armscye stitch line should come to the actual crease of the arm where it meets the body. You should clip the seam allowance of the armscye so it relaxes and settles down on the body. A FBA will make a tight "J" shape armhole and you may end up with too much ease to fit in without puckers.

3) Once you have the armhole cupping the body well, go on to the sleeve. Sarah had us drape it on. Meaning, cut out the package pattern sleeve, but leave a large amount of seam allowance in the cap between the notches. Start pin basting it in from the underarm and work up to the cap fitting it on your daughter. Ignore where the pattern seam line "should be". My cap fit well when it was 1 1/4" higher at the shoulder point.

You may not be able to go this far with the sleeve cut out, unless you have extra fabric for a re-cut. As I've said, it's food for thought and may help next time. I hope you get it good enough and your daughter is soon enjoying her beautiful top.

------
Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

GlynisA
GlynisA
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In reply to wendyrb <<


Date: 3/18/12 1:24 AM

You know I am really kicking myself right now. I had wanted to sign up for that class with Sarah Veblen but just never got around to it! I have had this same fit problem previously for her (my daughter) but the other shirts I have made were out of stretch fabric so it was tolerable. (I should add that she wears shirts like this for horse shows).

You have given me so much to think about and try! I thank you very much for all this detail. It takes a lot of time typing these posts out, I really appreciate it.

I had made this top as a trial run as I have not done so much with applique's and overlaying fabrics. I was hoping it might be a wearable muslin...but am prepared if it doesn't work out!

thanks again.

JEF
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JEF  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/18/12 8:36 AM

It is gorgeous. I hope you get it so she can wear it.

------
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." --Abraham Lincoln

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to GlynisA <<


Date: 3/18/12 10:05 AM

In a pinch, I have just taken a deeper seam at the underarm, between the notches. It's not the real fix, but it does help a bit.

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