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Forum > Fitting Woes > fba without increased waist width ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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fba without increased waist width
Rhegan
Rhegan
Member since 12/20/11
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Date: 3/17/12 10:09 PM

I am wondering if there is a tutorial or something out there that shows you how to do a fba with out adding to the waist. I am attempting kwik sew 3760 and if I make the bodice wider at the waist it wont fit theskirt anymore
http://sewing.patternreview.com/Patterns/36634'

Does anyone who has the sarah veblen book know if this is addressed in there?
-- Edited on 3/17/12 10:10 PM --

Fictionfan
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In reply to Rhegan <<


Date: 3/17/12 10:36 PM

Many people with a large bust need the extra width below the bust as well, so the usual method for FBA includes adding width to the skirt and waist. You just carry the width adjustment down the garment and then take it out of the side seam by shaping the seamline or make a waistline dart to take the width out again.

If I found the correct KS pattern, 3760 has armhole princess seam shaping in the bodice. You don't have to add width at the waist when you make a FBA with a princess seam. You want the added width at the bust, so the widening happens at the side front, assuming the seam line falls over the bust point as drafted. Sometimes I have to shift the whole seam over to make it lie where it should.

If you do a darted FBA, you will usually add or enlarge a side dart. On a princess seam, that dart is actually still there. It is rotated to the bust point as if the dart is closed at the side seam and open at the bust point. When you increase the bust for a princess seam, you make that side dart bigger at the bust point instead of at the side seam or other rotated places like the waist or armhole or shoulder. In effect, when you make a FBA to a princess seam, you add a wedge to the bulging part of the side front so the seam follows your contours, then add length to the center front and check your seam lines to be sure they match. The lower portion of the princess seam is blended back to the original (or never changed, really, unless you want it larger). After you finish the FBA, there is no need for a change at the waist.


HTH

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Fictionfan

Rhegan
Rhegan
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Date: 3/20/12 9:27 AM

Thanks Fiction Fan, I had to read it a couple times so that I could visualize what you are saying but I think I understand what you said. Now to make a muslin to see if I can make it work....

solosmocker
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Date: 3/22/12 8:20 PM

I do the pivot and slide method and slide back in to my natural waist size. Nancy Zieman has written extensively on this technique of fitting.

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http://lasewist.blogspot.com/

ryan's mom
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ryan's mom
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Date: 3/25/12 8:09 AM

Throwing this option (which I have done from time to time):

Cut the pattern horizontally below the underbust. Do the fba on the upper part, then stitch the upper and lower pieces back together and true the side seams.

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Big 4 Pattern size 12, RTW bottom: 6, RTW jacket 8, RTW top (no size fits me well!)
Measurements: 34 HB/36 FB (34C bra)/27.5/36 (and working hard to keep it that way.)
Machines: Sewing: Elna 760, vintage Kenmore Model 33 (1967), Janome Gem Gold 3. Sergers: Babylock Imagine and Babylock Enlighten. Embroidery Only: Janome 300E. Coverstitch: Janome CP1000. Straight Stitch: Janome 1600P.

If you think your sewing is better than everyone else's around here, get out of my way b****. I hate sewing snobs.

My blog: www.phatchickdesigns.blogspot.com

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