SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Forum > Beginner's Forum > RTW sizing vs. Pattern sizing ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
RTW sizing vs. Pattern sizing
Zees5
Zees5
Beginner
CA USA
Member since 6/30/07
Posts: 5
Send Message

      



Date: 3/18/12 2:42 PM

Hi, I am a RTW size 4. I can only fit a 4 even if I am overweight. So when I look at the measurements for Vogue patterns, according to my measurements I need a 16. That seems a little big. Can anyone that wears a RTW 4 or 6 let me know what size Vogue Patterns fits. I don't want to buy the 14-... size in patterns and find I need a size 12.

Thank you (:

nicegirl
starstarstarstar
nicegirl
Intermediate
DC USA
Member since 5/10/06
Posts: 1721
Send Message

      



Date: 3/18/12 3:31 PM

I haven't worn RTW in so long I don't know what size I am for sure, but I'm somewhere around a 2-4-6. I'd go with the smaller size range. In general, the Big 4 build a LOT of ease into garments and you'll probably want to go down a size from what they say based on measurements anyway.

You may have to add more hip or bust room, if you are large in those places (I am about a 14 hip; I usually buy the smaller size range and just grade out a bit at the hip).

The Big 4 are making it harder and harder to find this information (or omitting it altogether), but the best way to determine what size to sew is to look at the finished garment measurements. If, for instance, the finished bust is 34 inches for a particular size, hold a tape measure to 34 inches around your bust and see if the ease seems appropriate to the style. If it's too small, go up a size; too big, go down a size.

Most patterns used to have finished measurement for bust, waist, and hip, sometimes printed on the envelope. Now it is generally printed on the pattern tissue (and does not necessarily list all three), which makes it impossible to determine what size you need while shopping.

------
http://theslapdashsewist.blogspot.com
=================
2007: purchased 115+, sewed 105+
So close to parity, yet so far

Trying again in 2008
Yards purchased: 133
Yards sewn: Somewhere around 95

2009? I give up

AdaH
star
AdaH  Friend of PR
Intermediate
IA USA
Member since 11/21/09
Posts: 2483
Send Message

      



In reply to Zees5 <<


Date: 3/18/12 4:10 PM

RTW and pattern sizing have nothing in common.

------
Ada

Zees5
Zees5
Beginner
CA USA
Member since 6/30/07
Posts: 5
Send Message

      
thumbsup 1 member likes this.



Date: 3/18/12 4:23 PM

Thank you ladies. Aha! I thought they were building in a lot of ease b/c I have mostly sewn for my daughters and the patterns are always too big even though I go by their exact measurements.

I realize that RTW and Big 4 pattern sizes are not the same, but what I am wondering is what someone in RTW size 4 might need to buy in the Big 4. I am 37 28 37 ish. I am not lithe, but I am consistently a size 4 in all of my RTW dresses, bottoms and tops. I wear a small. My bone structure is a size 4. So I am worried about stocking up on patterns in the wrong size. I am leaning toward the 12 down. I have a feeling I will end up being on the cusp and needing a 12 sometimes and 14 other times which is going to be a big pain ):

Erica B.
starstarstarstar
Erica B.
Advanced
AL
Member since 6/6/06
Posts: 362
Send Message

      



Date: 3/18/12 5:34 PM

I don't know how you're taking measurements. I wear a RTW size 12 and cut a size 16 pattern.

------
Erica B.
Birmingham, AL
http://www.ericabunker.com

NhiHuynh
starstarstar
NhiHuynh
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 1/4/11
Posts: 762
Send Message

      



Date: 3/18/12 5:53 PM

I second the suggestion on using the finished garment measurement to pick the size. I just measure my existing clothes. Especially for your daughters they probably want less ease than normal.

I wear a size 4-6 in pants, xs or 0 in tops. Unfortunately that usually puts me right between the size split in Simplicity and McCall patterns. For patterns with only tops or a woven pattern that i will sew in a knit, I buy the smaller range of sizes. If its pants I go with the larger sizes. If its a dress I'll have to grade smaller or bigger unless I buy both size ranges. Within those ranges I'm all over the place because of the different ease in each.

------
I finally have a blog. www.detectivehoundstooth.com :)

Fictionfan
star
Fictionfan  Friend of PR
Advanced
VT USA
Member since 5/19/06
Posts: 1267
Send Message

      



Date: 3/18/12 6:00 PM

Make sure you are using a *snug* body measurement when you pick your size, and that the tape is level with the ground. You should be in your undergarments, not measuring over clothing. The measuring tape should not be digging into you, but it should also not have room for you to get a finger under it when you measure. Do you have someone who can help you measure?

I think the vanity sizing for most clothing manufacturers is about 2 sizes smaller than pattern sizing, but it is so variable, even within brands, that you can't assume anything. The big 4 patterns tend to have a lot of extra ease in the shoulders compared to the shaping of RTW these days. Kwik Sew run huge. The Vogue line of Sandra Betzina patterns use totally different sizing, which is why they have letters for sizes instead of numbers, and the shoulders are narrower proportionately than the standard Vogue patterns. The SB Vogue patterns include all sizes. So do New Look patterns, which are also usually less expensive than other lines unless the patterns are on sale. New Look is sold by Simplicity but the patterns seem to me to be closer fitting than most of the Simplicity ones. I've always found Simplicity and McCall's run larger on me than the Butterick/Vogue, though that looseness is design ease. Burda patterns also have a closer fit than the other lines. Palmer/Pletsch patterns for McCall's have a lot of fitting information on the patterns and in the instructions. Connie Crawford patterns are supposedly RTW sizing, but I'm not sure how they compare with regard to proportions.

HTH
-- Edited on 3/18/12 6:01 PM --

------
Fictionfan

stirwatersblue
star
stirwatersblue
Intermediate
KS USA
Member since 12/13/08
Posts: 3205
Send Message

      



In reply to Erica B. <<


Date: 3/21/12 1:42 PM

Quote: Erica B.
I don't know how you're taking measurements. I wear a RTW size 12 and cut a size 16 pattern.

I know it sounds weird, but her measurements are similar to mine--about an inch smaller all round--and I measure out at a 14 in the Vogue patterns in my stash.

Anyway, I'd go with your instincts! I'd start by sizing down to a 10 and making a muslin. (The Vogue I made recently had a *ton* of ease but still fit well when I cut the 12, so I don't think you want to go *too* far down at first.)



-- Edited on 3/21/12 1:44 PM --

------
~Gem in the prairie

Elona
star
Elona  Friend of PR
Advanced
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 8345
Send Message

      



In reply to Zees5 <<


Date: 3/21/12 2:09 PM

RTW 'sizes' are all over the map; a lot depends on how expensive the garment is, because vanity sizing is a reality. A RTW designer garment will be labeled several sizes smaller than something with a comparable fit at Sears. There is no relationship whatsoever between RTW sizing and pattern sizing. None.

The key for home sewing is measuring yourself, rather snugly as has been mentioned, especially if you're a little thin person, and selecting a pattern as close to your measurements as possible.

In your case, I'd recommend buying one basic pattern for wovens, just one, nothing fancy (preferably on-sale and deeply discounted), with a note in the pattern description saying that it's close-fitting or slightly fitted--not loose. Then take out the pattern pieces and measure them between the seamlines at key points like the bust, waist, and hips. Compare those to yourself. That will give you some idea of how other patterns by the same company, in the same size, made for the same kind of fabric, will fit you.



AdaH
star
AdaH  Friend of PR
Intermediate
IA USA
Member since 11/21/09
Posts: 2483
Send Message

      



Date: 3/21/12 3:24 PM

Most patterns are multi sized and from your measurements you will probably have the sizes you need in one envelope.

If you have not sewn for yourself you are going to have to pick a size then sew up the front and back in a muslin, try it on and only then are you going to be able to know what is going to work for you.

It is all about ease and how tight or lose you like your garments to be.
Do you have a blouse that you like and it fits you well? Measure that blouse accross the bust and see how much ease it has compared to your bust measurement. Then you will know how much ease you like. Once you know that then you can measure your pattern and see if the ease in the pattern will be what you like.
By the way what is your cup size. That plays a part in selecting your pattern size.

------
Ada

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Beginner's Forum >> RTW sizing vs. Pattern sizing

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
The Contemporary Couture Jacket
The Contemporary Couture Jacket

Register

Beginners Guide to Dyeing Fabrics
Beginners Guide to Dyeing Fabrics

Register

Self Drafted Pattern Savage Coco Patterns

photo
by: SavageCoco

Review
You Sew Girl Small Tote Pattern

You Sew Girl Small Tote Pattern

Buy Now
Jamie Christina Abbey Coat Pattern (JC314AC)

Jamie Christina Abbey Coat Pattern (JC314AC)

Buy Now

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.