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Two-piece sleeve - Will it bind?
meanjean
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meanjean  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Texas USA
Member since 5/4/05
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Date: 3/25/12 8:19 AM

Dear advanced pattern makers --

I'm contemplating making Simplicity 5923 (http://www.simplicity.com/p-5923-misses-plus-size-sportswear.aspx). The sleeve is a two-piece job, the kind with the over-shoulder/arm seam.

I read a review of this pattern and the sewer noted that the sleeve was binding when she moved. I'm trying to figure out if:
1) She needed to add more room at the bicep
Or
2) The design of this sleeve lends itself to restricted movement. In particular, notice how the the armscye is cut well over the shoulder. I "get" why the two-piece sleeve is required for this design, but I don't want to spend a lot of time perfecting fit if the design also inherently restricts ease of movement. Being geometrically challenged, I have a hard time visualizing these things in my head.

Thanks for your thoughts,
Jean

-- Edited on 3/25/12 8:20 AM --

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Jean

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Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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Date: 3/25/12 11:34 PM

Looks like a raglan sleeve, and there was a thread from ladies sewing a jacket with a raglan sleeve that was twisting and binding. They sorted it out by adding to the sleeve width at the sholder point. Other than that I think it should work fine.

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Karine
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Karine  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/26/12 9:32 AM

In recent PR classes with Angela Wolf and Sarah Veblen, both advocate using two-piece sleeves. It's much easier to get a good fit. I don't find them binding at all and really like the look.

Jane S
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Jane S
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In reply to meanjean <<


Date: 3/26/12 1:24 PM

I've made a mock up of this dress, just never made it up in real fabric yet. It will or won't bind (as is, without your alterations) depending on where on your body you carry your fluff. I have larger lower biceps but narrow shoulders so I add to the sleeve where I have extra (about 4-5 inches past my shoulder joint) and always cut a smaller size at my shoulders and neckline. This design will not inherently have any restriction unless maybe you plan to play basketball or clean your ceiling fans:-) But it is a woven pattern and sometimes that can seem restrictive to a person used to wearing knits. I think it's a flattering pattern and worthy of being a mock up. I enjoyed having the D cup sections already there for me.

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Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to meanjean <<


Date: 3/26/12 1:49 PM

Hi Jean. Nice to see you posting again! This is a raglan sleeve, not what is known as a "two piece". Raglan sleeves can bind if you have forward rolling shoulders, as the shoulder will hit about where the seamline is, and restrict movement. They can also bind at the bicep, much like any other sleeve. How you fix the bicep problem on this particular type of sleeve is that you can add to the seam that runs down the outside of your arm. It doesn't necessarily need to be perfectly straight, as it has to allow for the fullness of your bicep; much like a hip curve. How to do this is to cut that seam allowance a little fuller, then pin fit the sleeve closed, keeping in mind the movement you need.
HTH

BTW: Raglan sleeves are very slim looking.

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Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to meanjean <<


Date: 3/26/12 6:01 PM

The two piece sleeve generally fits better because it is shaped and follows the natural curve of the arm. If the shoulder is too wide, that will restrict motion. Not enough ease in the biceps will restrict movement as will a low armhole.
Too short an armhole will also cause binding, but if there are no wrinkles pointing to the armhole I'd go with you need more biceps ease.

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