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Forum > Patterns and Notions > looking for a well made jacket/shirt pattern ( Moderated by Sharon1952)

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looking for a well made jacket/shirt pattern
one that doesn;t require tons of modifications
GlynisA
GlynisA  Friend of PR
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British Columbia CANADA
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Date: 3/26/12 3:06 AM

So I have been struggling with a Suitability pattern trying to fit it for my daughter and her equestrian events.(see my thread on fitting woes) All of these patterns seem to have a armhole too large and armscye too low. I find it a frustrating alteration to do as well as a fba for her, i am hoping someone knows of a nicely designed princess seamed jacket/shirt with a collar and long sleeves pattern with a zipper, where the armpit is actually where it should be on the standard sizes.

I am looking for a simpler version to keep me from going cuckoo.

AdaH
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Date: 3/26/12 6:53 PM

I would try a multi cup pattern. At least you won't have to do the FBA.
For some very good information on sleeves go to the Silhouette pattern web page. Peggy has a number of videos that show you how easy it is to adjust the armholes and sleeve.

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Ada

NhiHuynh
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Date: 3/27/12 0:17 AM

I second AdaH's recommendation on Sihouette patterns and their latest sleeve webcast. The pattern has different front pieces for each cup size. For the sleeve size you have to find the sleeve that fits first and use the matching armhole. Sounds like maybe your daughter has skinnier arms and just need a smaller sleeve and the corresponding smaller armhole.

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I finally have a blog. www.detectivehoundstooth.com :)

Kayabunga
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Date: 3/27/12 7:26 AM

I third AdaH and second NhiHuynh recommendations... you will find what you need with Silhouette patterns. I've just finished my muslin for pattern #1900 and the drafting is AMAZING. The fit is truly fabulous, it's a great body skimming shape and I think it would work as a great base for your riding jacket. If you do run into a fitting problem, Peggy is great at helping you.

Patti B
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Date: 3/27/12 10:12 AM

I sewed a lined jacket for a very petite young woman using an OOP Jalie pattern. I 'petited' the pattern in 3 places -- mid armscye (and on the sleeve pieces), between armscye and waist and a tad below the waist. These changes made it fit her (hooray). Do you think if you did this to the armscye it would help? Good luck!

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Patti

R-r-r-ripping my way to fitting success

clothingengineer
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Date: 3/27/12 10:30 AM

Is the bust otherwise in the correct place? Or is it too low as well? Despite being 5'9" I'm petite between the shoulder and bust and have to take a tuck in the middle of this area, removing a total of 1", in order to get armholes the right length and the bust up where it should be. With Burda I usually only have to remove 1/2".

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-- Anne
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clothingengineer
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In reply to GlynisA <<


Date: 3/27/12 10:41 AM

Looking at the other thread it looks like your daughter is into Western riding? If that's the case then Jalie 2677 is probably a more suitable style. It doesn't have princess seams but uses 4-way stretch knit so it may be easier to fit.

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-- Anne
clothingengineer.com

GlynisA
GlynisA  Friend of PR
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In reply to NhiHuynh <<


Date: 3/28/12 0:15 AM

Thank you ladie's I am definitely going to check out Silhouette patterns. I think I have a number of concerns such as square shoulders and broad back, slim arms. So the Silouette sounds very compelling. I'll post back when i get somewhere with it.

GlynisA
GlynisA  Friend of PR
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British Columbia CANADA
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In reply to clothingengineer <<


Date: 3/28/12 0:19 AM

You know regarding the bust being in the right spot, you could be correct there. But I think she also has square shoulders and a broad back while not having any extra fat above the bust. I am hoping to search out a very accomplished local seamstress to give me a good second opinion.

I have that Jalie pattern and am already to give it a go. My first concern was, do I do a fba or just give it a shot using the bust measurement? . (This style is for a horsemanship discipline which she'll need a top for, the previous shirt was for western pleasure. She also rides English but I buy the blazer and make dickies for under those!)

clothingengineer
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In reply to GlynisA <<


Date: 3/28/12 1:50 PM

If you already have something made up, you can just pin a tuck between shoulders and bust and see if it does anything. I usually do this alteration on both front and back; she may only need it in the front.

An easy way of checking the shoulder slope (and how much you would need to alter it) would be to have her stand against a wall with a piece of paper and trace her shoulder line, then compare it to the pattern.

I would do a FBA. A dart would be easily and hardly noticeable in the show ring. If you go by bust size there's a good chance it will be too big in the shoulders.

------
-- Anne
clothingengineer.com

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