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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Jacket lining - creating an ease pleat

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Jacket lining - creating an ease pleat
Sewing in the Wind
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Sewing in the Wind
District of Columbia USA
Member since 3/31/10
Posts: 7
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 3/31/12 6:14 PM

I probably what you'd call an advanced beginner/intermediate sewer but I'm making my first jacket and I've hit a roadblock. I'd love some expert assistance.
I'm making jacket 109 from Burda 3/2012 and I'm stuck on the lining. The instructions tell me to use the back pattern piece "minus neck facing and with an ease pleat of approx 2cm (3/4 inch) at center back".
Does this mean I just add 3/4 inch width to whole length of the center back pattern piece? Then the ease would be 1 1/2 inches, right?
So then, assuming that is the case, the instructions then tell me to "stitch allowances of center seam together, 3/8 inch from edge. To form ease pleat, stitch along center back at top and bottom, each approx 2 inch long and baste in between."
OK, I have no idea what that means. I have read it about 235 times and I still have no clue what it's telling me to do.
Does anyone have experience with adding a jacket lining from the jacket shell pattern pieces and adding an ease pleat who could explain to me in plain English what I need to do?
Thank you so much!
NhiHuynh
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NhiHuynh
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In reply to Sewing in the Wind

Date: 3/31/12 7:29 PM

I'm not a jacket lining expert but I think I understand what the instructions is trying to say. The ease is a total of 3/4". So if you were to fold the lining at center back and sew 3/8" in from the center back (i.e. 3/8" seam allowance) you'd get 2 x 3/8" or 3/4" for the pleat. You'll need to start at the top and sew down 2" with the 3/8" seam allowance. Same from the bottom 2" up. In between you baste. So what you have from top to bottom is 2" of stitches, a length of basting stitches and another 2" of stitches at the bottom. I'm assuming there's instructions later to remove the basting. Again I'm not an expert on lining so hopefully someone with more knowledge will chime in.

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a7yrstitch
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a7yrstitch  Friend of PR
Texas USA
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In reply to Sewing in the Wind

Date: 3/31/12 7:37 PM

This will help. Go down the page a bit to the area titled, 'Making a Lining Pattern'.

Threads, Bag Your Jacket Lining, November 1st, 2008.

It is as NhiHuynh has described. The article will contain additional information that you may want to refer to on future projects.

Happy sewing

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I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

Sewing in the Wind
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Sewing in the Wind
District of Columbia USA
Member since 3/31/10
Posts: 7
Skill: Intermediate
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In reply to NhiHuynh

Date: 4/5/12 6:47 PM

Thank you so much, NhiHuynh. I followed your interpretation of the instructions and it worked out perfectly. I really appreciate you taking the time to help me out.
Sewing in the Wind
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Sewing in the Wind
District of Columbia USA
Member since 3/31/10
Posts: 7
Skill: Intermediate
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In reply to a7yrstitch

Date: 4/5/12 6:49 PM

Thanks, a7yrstitch -- that's a very useful resource. I planned to bag the jacket lining following an online tutorial I had bookmarked but the whole ease pleat confusion stopped me before I could even get to that point! Thanks again, I really appreciate your help.
NhiHuynh
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In reply to Sewing in the Wind

Date: 4/5/12 6:56 PM

Great job! You're way ahead of me. I can't tell you how long it took me figure out how trace the darn pattern. I hope a pic and pattern review is coming soon.

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I finally have a blog. www.detectivehoundstooth.com :)

a7yrstitch
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a7yrstitch  Friend of PR
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In reply to Sewing in the Wind

Date: 4/5/12 8:01 PM

Your welcome. Looking forward to hearing out everything 'turns out'.

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I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

Tizmehr
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Date: 4/6/12 8:22 AM

Is your back pattern piece cut on the fold? I'll assume that. Okay, with the back still folded, start sewing the center back from the top and on the original fold line. Sew for two inches. I like to do a bit of back stitching at this point to tie off. Now change your stitch length to a basting stitch and go all the way down to 2 inches from the bottom (I think you'd stop 2 inches above the hem.) Change your stitch length back to shorter setting. Sew to the bottom of the piece. You'll have a 3/4 inch seam allowance which will be folded to form the pleat and at the end you'll remove the basting and that will give you your lining ease.
If your back isn't cut on the fold, you'll have to sew the pieces together with a normal seam allowance first then do the stitching as above 3/4 inch in from that stitching line to form the pleat.
Hope I've helped.
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