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Forum > Fitting Woes > Hopefully a quick question re: pattern sizing ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Hopefully a quick question re: pattern sizing
Use body measurements vs. finished garment measurements
heathergwo
heathergwo
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California USA
Member since 11/14/11
Posts: 958
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Date: 4/2/12 8:20 PM

Ok.. so I'm about to start making the famously popular Simplicity 2406 (Cynthia Rowley dress) for my sister and I'm not sure where to cut!

Based on the "Body Measurement" section, I would cut a 16-18 for bust, 18-20 waist and 16-18 hip. HOWEVER, based on the "Finished Garment Measurement" section, which ONLY lists the bust measurement, I should cut btwn 10-12!

That's a really big difference! And since it doesn't have the "finished garment measurements" for more than the bust, how do I see if I need to grade out or not???

I don't want to screw this up , but also REALLY don't want to make a muslin either if I don't have to.... Please help!!

Thanks!

------
Brother Innovis 1250D
Babylock Enlighten
Singer Curvy 8763
Brother 1034D
Janome 385.19606
Brother 2340CV

Michelle L
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Michelle L
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Missouri USA
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In reply to heathergwo <<


Date: 4/2/12 8:23 PM

Keep in mind you have to add ease to the finished garment measurements.

If you equate finished measurements to body measurements, the garment will be skin tight.

I STRONGLY recommend a muslin if there are any questions about fit.

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Michelle

http://cheapandpicky.blogspot.com/

sewsally
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sewsally  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/2/12 9:53 PM

Measure the pattern at the waist and hips minus the seam allowances. That should give you an idea of the size.
Allow about 2.5-3" ease in the hips and at least 1/2 inch at the waist depending on the style.

NhiHuynh
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NhiHuynh
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In reply to heathergwo <<


Date: 4/2/12 10:35 PM

The finished garment measurement has to be compared to the finished garment measurement of something in your sister's closet that is a similar style. The finished garment measurement is body measurement plus ease. Since the ease varies from pattern to pattern and from one's personal preference I don't typically use the body measurement. If you look on the pattern tissue sometimes you will find the finished garment measurement printed there. If not you have to measure the pattern minus the seam allowance. It's a pain in the butt if the pattern is complicated but worth the effort if you don't like surprises.

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AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/2/12 10:50 PM

There are a few reviews for this pattern, view c.

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Ada

heathergwo
heathergwo
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California USA
Member since 11/14/11
Posts: 958
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Date: 4/2/12 11:23 PM

Thanks for the quick responses... I've decided that if I really don't want to mess up, that I should make at least a partial muslin.

This whole "ease" thing is hard to judge. I like sewsally's description of "typical" ease at each measurement. What is "typical" ease at the bust? I know she doesn't like clothes that are really baggy... and the difference on this pattern is 6" in the bust... is that normal ease for a bust??

I'm taking a couple of fitting classes in the near future, but that doesn't help me at the moment :-)

------
Brother Innovis 1250D
Babylock Enlighten
Singer Curvy 8763
Brother 1034D
Janome 385.19606
Brother 2340CV

petro
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petro  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/3/12 1:32 AM

Ease isn't easy :D. Sorry, typed that before I realised what I'd written.
It does depend on the fabric, how loose you like your clothes, the style, overgarment or not and how large your bust measurement is. Part of the ease in that area is to allow for expansion when you breathe in. In my limited experience of Big4 patterns, there always seems to be too much ease for my liking. I don't know if its vanity sizing, or thinking that its better to allow more fabric than less, but I find it off putting.

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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In reply to heathergwo <<


Date: 4/3/12 5:15 AM

The dress looks quite easy fitting at the bust, so 6 inches of ease at the bust could be quite possible.

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www.iconicpatterns.com

Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to heathergwo <<


Date: 4/3/12 8:12 AM

Here's a chart for ease:
click here

I've been watching a lot of the Peggy Sagers videos and she says 4" of ease for a blouse is normal, and a minimum. Your pattern looks like there is about 6" of ease, so the measurement is correct.

One final note, and I'm sure you'll get some varying answers. You're starting out in sewing and I and the others here on PR want to encourage you to continue. For that reason, you should always, always make a muslin. One of the well known teachers here on PR had that as her mantra. You don't know how the fabric is going to fit, unless you do. A standard size 16-18 will look different on every person, simply because of their body shape and nuances such as forward rolling shoulders, narrow shoulders, hollow chest, etc. So don't fool yourself into thinking you can get by without making a muslin, because you'll become frustrated and quit, we don't want you to do that!

------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

SEE MY ETSY SHOP HERE: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AuntMaymesAttic
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heathergwo
heathergwo
Advanced Beginner
California USA
Member since 11/14/11
Posts: 958
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In reply to Miss Fairchild <<


Date: 4/3/12 10:33 PM

Thanks for the link - that's a great one to have around!!

I know I should do muslins more, I just hate the idea of making the same thing twice... of course this would probably help my overall skills and make putting the "real" one together a snap! And I'm sure a few pieces of clothing I've made wouldn't just be hanging in my closet, not fitting :-)

I've never actually made one, so I will definitely give it a try on this dress...

------
Brother Innovis 1250D
Babylock Enlighten
Singer Curvy 8763
Brother 1034D
Janome 385.19606
Brother 2340CV

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