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Hopefully a quick question re: pattern sizing Use body measurements vs. finished garment measurements
heathergwo Advanced Beginner CA USA Member since 11/14/11 Posts: 766	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 4/2/12 8:20 PM Ok.. so I'm about to start making the famously popular Simplicity 2406 (Cynthia Rowley dress) for my sister and I'm not sure where to cut! Based on the "Body Measurement" section, I would cut a 16-18 for bust, 18-20 waist and 16-18 hip. HOWEVER, based on the "Finished Garment Measurement" section, which ONLY lists the bust measurement, I should cut btwn 10-12! That's a really big difference! And since it doesn't have the "finished garment measurements" for more than the bust, how do I see if I need to grade out or not??? I don't want to screw this up , but also REALLY don't want to make a muslin either if I don't have to.... Please help!! Thanks! ------ Brother Innovis 1250D Singer Curvy 8763 Brother 1034D Janome 385.19606 Brother 2340CV
Michelle L   Intermediate MO USA Member since 1/20/08 Posts: 1293	Login to reply to this post In reply to heathergwo << Like this post Date: 4/2/12 8:23 PM Keep in mind you have to add ease to the finished garment measurements. If you equate finished measurements to body measurements, the garment will be skin tight. I STRONGLY recommend a muslin if there are any questions about fit. ------ Michelle http://cheapandpicky.blogspot.com/
sewsally   Intermediate WA USA Member since 8/18/02 Posts: 1197	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 4/2/12 9:53 PM Measure the pattern at the waist and hips minus the seam allowances. That should give you an idea of the size. Allow about 2.5-3" ease in the hips and at least 1/2 inch at the waist depending on the style.
NhiHuynh   Advanced CA USA Member since 1/4/11 Posts: 593	Login to reply to this post In reply to heathergwo << Like this post Date: 4/2/12 10:35 PM The finished garment measurement has to be compared to the finished garment measurement of something in your sister's closet that is a similar style. The finished garment measurement is body measurement plus ease. Since the ease varies from pattern to pattern and from one's personal preference I don't typically use the body measurement. If you look on the pattern tissue sometimes you will find the finished garment measurement printed there. If not you have to measure the pattern minus the seam allowance. It's a pain in the butt if the pattern is complicated but worth the effort if you don't like surprises.
AdaH   Intermediate IA USA Member since 11/21/09 Posts: 2133	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 4/2/12 10:50 PM There are a few reviews for this pattern, view c. ------ Ada
heathergwo Advanced Beginner CA USA Member since 11/14/11 Posts: 766	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 4/2/12 11:23 PM Thanks for the quick responses... I've decided that if I really don't want to mess up, that I should make at least a partial muslin. This whole "ease" thing is hard to judge. I like sewsally's description of "typical" ease at each measurement. What is "typical" ease at the bust? I know she doesn't like clothes that are really baggy... and the difference on this pattern is 6" in the bust... is that normal ease for a bust?? I'm taking a couple of fitting classes in the near future, but that doesn't help me at the moment :-) ------ Brother Innovis 1250D Singer Curvy 8763 Brother 1034D Janome 385.19606 Brother 2340CV
petro   Intermediate FRANCE Member since 6/24/07 Posts: 2202	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 4/3/12 1:32 AM Ease isn't easy :D. Sorry, typed that before I realised what I'd written. It does depend on the fabric, how loose you like your clothes, the style, overgarment or not and how large your bust measurement is. Part of the ease in that area is to allow for expansion when you breathe in. In my limited experience of Big4 patterns, there always seems to be too much ease for my liking. I don't know if its vanity sizing, or thinking that its better to allow more fabric than less, but I find it off putting. ------ so many patterns, clamouring to be sewn http://patternpandemonium.wordpress.com/
Lena Merrin Expert/Couture AUSTRALIA Member since 2/5/09 Posts: 477	Login to reply to this post In reply to heathergwo << Like this post Date: 4/3/12 5:15 AM The dress looks quite easy fitting at the bust, so 6 inches of ease at the bust could be quite possible. ------ www.thesewingspace.com
Miss Fairchild   Advanced USA Member since 8/24/02 Posts: 6985	Login to reply to this post In reply to heathergwo << Like this post Date: 4/3/12 8:12 AM Here's a chart for ease: click here I've been watching a lot of the Peggy Sagers videos and she says 4" of ease for a blouse is normal, and a minimum. Your pattern looks like there is about 6" of ease, so the measurement is correct. One final note, and I'm sure you'll get some varying answers. You're starting out in sewing and I and the others here on PR want to encourage you to continue. For that reason, you should always, always make a muslin. One of the well known teachers here on PR had that as her mantra. You don't know how the fabric is going to fit, unless you do. A standard size 16-18 will look different on every person, simply because of their body shape and nuances such as forward rolling shoulders, narrow shoulders, hollow chest, etc. So don't fool yourself into thinking you can get by without making a muslin, because you'll become frustrated and quit, we don't want you to do that! ------ "We don't impose our rhythm on Nature. The key is to respect and live within Her." Jean-Charles Boisset, Winemaker "And no, now that you asked, I didn't enjoy that play one bit, and I'd like a refund" Signed, Mrs. Lincoln My Etsy shop: auntmaymesattic My blog: auntmaymesattic.wordpress.com Avatar: First place award for jacket at county fair
heathergwo Advanced Beginner CA USA Member since 11/14/11 Posts: 766	Login to reply to this post In reply to Miss Fairchild << Like this post Date: 4/3/12 10:33 PM Thanks for the link - that's a great one to have around!! I know I should do muslins more, I just hate the idea of making the same thing twice... of course this would probably help my overall skills and make putting the "real" one together a snap! And I'm sure a few pieces of clothing I've made wouldn't just be hanging in my closet, not fitting :-) I've never actually made one, so I will definitely give it a try on this dress... ------ Brother Innovis 1250D Singer Curvy 8763 Brother 1034D Janome 385.19606 Brother 2340CV

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