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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Shoulder slope differences ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Shoulder slope differences
On front and back pattern pieces
rfsews
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Date: 4/3/12 9:54 PM

Should the shoulder slope be the same on both front and back pattern pieces?

I noticed that in the last pattern I made, the front and back shoulder slopes are different: the back is 1 1/2" and the front is 1 1/4". My own shoulder slope is 1 1/4" so I only made a 1/4" square shoulder adjustment in the back and left the front alone. Now Iím working on Simplicity 2599 and it has the same 1/4" shoulder slope difference between front and back as the previous pattern!

So now Iím confused: Should I do my square shoulder adjustment on both pattern pieces or just the one that needs it?

Thanks,
Steph

sewsally
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Date: 4/3/12 10:18 PM

The slope or angle of the shoulders should match if you lay the front and back pattern pieces together.
-- Edited on 4/3/12 10:19 PM --

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to rfsews <<


Date: 4/4/12 3:20 AM

Quote:
Should the shoulder slope be the same on both front and back pattern pieces?
Yes, because the shoulder seam that is created from the front and back pieces follows your shoulder line. That's not to say, however, that your left shoulder slope can be exactly the same as your right shoulder slope; they can be different!

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rfsews
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In reply to Miss Fairchild <<


Date: 4/4/12 11:42 AM

Hm. I measured them again...the slopes are definitely different between the front and the back by 1/4". I've decided to use the pattern as is, since one of the slopes matches my slope. I'll see how it goes!

GlButterfly

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Date: 4/4/12 11:51 AM

Just thinking out loud here, but if one had slightly forward shoulders wouldn't that extra 1/4" for the back shoulder possibly eliminate a need for an adjustment? Wonder what the pattern company had in mind?

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KD in ATL

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Date: 4/4/12 1:12 PM

No, the front and back slopes don't have to be the same. For example, when you do a high round back adjustment, it makes the back shoulder slope more steep than the front. That is because you need the extra fabric for your curve. The lengths of the seams need to be the same, unless you are planning to have the back shoulder eased a bit to the front one.

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to GlButterfly <<


Date: 4/4/12 9:03 PM

I have forward shoulders, to the tune of 5/8" and the slope doesn't change. What I'm dropping down in the front, I'm adding to the back, but the line of the shoulder is the same. If I could draw a picture, I'd show you what I mean.

I was reading her post to mean if one is off from the other; in other words, if I were to drop down 5/8" in the front, and not add anything to the back.

Edited to add: Sorry! Now I have a better grip on what she's asking. Excuse my post.

But the HRB adjustment has me curious. I'll look at this the next time I do one; mine's 3/4" and it changes the back seam, making it curved. I'll have to look at what it does to the shoulder; I've never noticed it changing the slope before, because I do my HRB at CB, tapering to nothing at the armhole. And I don't think using a shoulder dart would change it once it's sewn, but I could be wrong.
-- Edited on 4/5/12 7:46 AM --

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goodworks1
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Date: 4/5/12 3:03 PM

I think this angle issue depends on the way the pattern is drafted. I've had patterns where the shoulder seam angles dramatically toward the front and ends up maybe a couple inches forward on the armseye. I really don't think there's any reason the angles need to match. But I think I'd try a muslin of the shoulder area and test it. I guess it mostly depends on how much you trust the person who drafted the original pattern....

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Nancy K
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In reply to goodworks1 <<


Date: 4/5/12 9:53 PM

I agree with you. It depends on the draft. if you add to the back shoulder and take off the front for forward shoulder it looks like the slope is different. Pin the pattern together and try it on and see where it falls on your shoulder.

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petro
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Date: 4/6/12 2:31 AM

The shoulder slopes will not necessarily be the same. To get the best look on an individual you sometimes move the shoulder point or the neck point forward or back, that changes the angle on both. Sometimes a style change will give a different slope for each piece too.

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