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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Puffing an unpuffed sleeve

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Puffing an unpuffed sleeve
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DaisyGrubber

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Date: 4/6/12 6:41 AM

I would be really grateful for feedback on this sleeve.

I've redrafted a standard shirtdress pattern to give it a more 30s look, by moving the bust dart into the shoulder and turning it into tucks, and also making the sleeve puffed. I cut and spread it by about 8cm at the upper seam line, and then raised the sleeve head about 2cm (as instructed by my pattern cutting book, to give the puff room to puff).

The first picture is the muslin I made, with which I was quite happy.



However when made up in the actual fabric, which is a stiffer craft cotton, it sticks up in a little ridge which I'm not sure about. The seam here has been properly sewn and I pressed it too, but have not trimmed it down or anything.



I also tried tacking the sleeve on higher so that 1cm of the extra sleevehead raise was removed, but it didn't really look any different.

Is it ok as it is? Should I redraft it again in some way? Do I need to start and finish the gathering from further down in the sleeve? Something else?

Many thanks.
-- Edited on 4/6/12 6:42 AM --

DaisyGrubber

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Date: 4/6/12 6:58 AM

PS I made one change between the muslin and the final pattern, which was that I redrew the underarm seam straight (parallel with the centre line) to give me more room to move my arms. But I don't think this is the cause of the problem as I tried pinning it back to where it was and it doesn't look different.

StitchWench
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Date: 4/6/12 7:03 AM

Unpick the sleeves from notch to notch & then spread the gathers out more if you're not overly fussed on the height. Stiff/er fabrics do tend to do this though that's why stiffer fabrics for skirts are pleated into waistbands rather than gathered.
HTH
-- Edited on 4/6/12 7:05 AM --

Debbie Lancaster
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Date: 4/6/12 1:20 PM

First, try pressing the seam at the top of the sleeve toward the neckline rather than toward the sleeve. See if that improves things. It can sometimes make all the difference.

------
Debbie

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to DaisyGrubber <<


Date: 4/6/12 2:38 PM

You need to add more fullness to the cap to make the stiffer fabric look puffier. So you need to unpick the sleeve, and slash the pattern at the cap a little more.

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"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

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DaisyGrubber

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Date: 4/6/12 3:56 PM

Debbie is a genius!!! Pressing the seam the other way totally solved it and it now sits beautifully.

Good thing too as I had no more fabric to cut new sleeves from.

Perhaps she can now also resolve my dilemma as to whether to make the collar and facing out of the same fabric or contrast cream as I can't make my mind up at all!
-- Edited on 4/6/12 3:59 PM --

Debbie Lancaster
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Debbie Lancaster  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/6/12 11:33 PM

:D Got that tip from Pam Erny's blog: Off-The-Cuff Sewing Style

My preference for the collar would be peach. I think cream would be too great a contrast.
-- Edited on 4/6/12 11:35 PM --

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Debbie

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