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Forum > Fitting Woes > FBA/side dart/waist dart problems ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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FBA/side dart/waist dart problems
can I fix or do I need to restart
brissmith
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brissmith
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Date: 4/6/12 7:02 AM

photo

I made a muslin and it looked ok but now in the "real" fabric it is not working.....

This is the first time that I've done a fba on this type of top and Ive added a side dart into the front as well. I think it will look a touch better with the skirt added as it will add weight to the top but still will leave some bulging between the waist dart and the side dart area (ie between the breast and the side seam)

The side with the arrows is one I have made the side dart a bit longer which has helped a little but it still isn't right.

Can I correct this (how??) or do I need to start from scratch and recut with a smaller fba? (Needed to increase from a "b" to a "c" cup as I found the muslin originally pulled across too much across the front.)

And is the waist dart (which is from the original pattern) in the wrong position as well? The top arrow points to a pin which mark the middle of my breast.

Any suggestions welcome

http://www.flickr.com/photos/25438149@N06/7050307871/

TIA
Susan

sew2006
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sew2006
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In reply to brissmith <<
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Date: 4/6/12 8:18 AM

Can you please check the settings to see if they are marked private? Instead of seeing the picture I get a log in screan.

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Janome10001, Babylock ESG3, Brother ULT 2001, White 634D serger, Pfaff 1472, Singer featherweight, Singer 14T957Dc, Bernina FunLock 009DCC coverlock, Brother PQ1500S, Janome CP900.

JTink
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In reply to brissmith <<
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Date: 4/6/12 8:55 AM

I'm also unable to view the photo...

brissmith
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brissmith
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Date: 4/6/12 4:08 PM

Sorry Im not very flickr friendly..have fixed

Maybe part of the waist dart problem is that Ive graded out for the waist and put the dart in the waist size position where as the top of the bodice is smaller to fit my (scrawny as my DH calls it) chest) so the waist darts do need to be moved over a bit as part of the 'fix'

I have double checked my measurements and I have done the FBA to the right distance according to these.
-- Edited on 4/6/12 5:52 PM --

Fictionfan
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Date: 4/6/12 10:15 PM

First, has this been pressed over a ham? Bumps like that often disappear with a good pressing.
Second, the darts are too long and don't quite point to the right spot.

I would try pressing first to see if that takes out the bulging, and if it doesn't, then change the darts by moving the points further from the bust point, perhaps about 2 cm or so. Sometimes, curving the dart to follow your own contours more closely is just the right thing to do. Just because the dart is straight on the pattern doesn't mean that is how it should be sewn in order fot=r the garment to fit you.

The waist dart will also look better if you contour it. There were a couple discussions about this a few years ago. Try searching s-darts or s dart or variations of it. I can't recall exactly what the search term was that got to the thread with a drawing showing the shaping of a waist dart. There was an article in threads a few years ago, too, but I can't recall which issue it was. Basically, you can change any straight dart to a curved dart to get the shaping to follow your body.

HTH

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Fictionfan

brissmith
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brissmith
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In reply to Fictionfan <<


Date: 4/7/12 1:23 AM

Hi
No hasn't been pressed over a ham. I've been meaning to buy one now that I've started sewing for myself it is worthwhile investing in one.
The dart that is too long -do you mean the ones up from the waist?
I was thinking of contouring it so thanks for that advice.

petro
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Date: 4/7/12 2:35 AM

One of my daughters always needed a shaped waist dart to take care of that bulging effect - on her it needed to come in quite sharply near the top, like the front end of a large boat, then straighten out over the waist area.

brissmith
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brissmith
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In reply to petro <<


Date: 4/7/12 2:52 AM

Like this dart?dart

Fictionfan
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In reply to brissmith <<
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Date: 4/7/12 11:52 AM

Oh, you absolutely need a ham! A seam roll is good to have as well, but you should definitely get a ham. The ones they sell these days are a lot smaller than the one I bought when I started sewing decades ago. It's the curved shape and the firm pressing surface that you need to shape your garment during construction. You could try making one, but it is not easy to stuff the sawdust in firmly enough to get a hard enough surface for pressing. You could jury-rig something with a stuffed animal or a firm pillow, though be sure to protect the surface with some fabric that can withstand the heat of the iron and steam.

Dart length: The larger busted you are, the shorter the darts should be. I meant both darts looked long, or too close to the bust point. Without having the garment pressed, it is hard to say for sure, since the unpressed fabric is not lying smoothly on your body. They might actually be fine the way they are once they are pressed. I do think the shaping of the waist dart to take out the underbust looseness would make the bodice fit more flattering, closer fit for you, but you might like it looser. That's a matter of preference.

Good luck!

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Fictionfan

a7yrstitch
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In reply to Fictionfan <<


Date: 4/7/12 1:05 PM

Fictionfan, I've earmarked a collection of dart threads, here is how to find them...

In the Search Board function, search these words together with no space in between

dart thread (remember to leave out the space)

search in messages

leave the name of the poster blank
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Maybe you are looking for something like the Shaped Basic Dart link that will pop up in the Darts for Shaping Thread. The search above will pull that up within the select group.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I bumped this thread, Miscellaneous > Message Searches, Bumping Threads. It explains the earmarked searches and includes a list of search categories.

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I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

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