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rayon challis
what to use with it
aquamarineerica

aquamarineerica
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Date: 4/6/12 11:01 AM

I recently bought some beautiful rayon challis in black. I planned on making a skirt with it. Can I use regular polyester thread (C&C) with it or do I need rayon thread? I practiced on a scrap with the polyester thread, and the stitching seemed kind of tight. I was using a ballpoint needle, size 14.

Also...is rayon considered a woven or more of a knit? It feels like there's just a touch of stretch. Not sure what size or type of needle to use on this material...never sewn on it before.

Thanks...
Erica

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Debbie Lancaster
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Date: 4/6/12 1:09 PM

Use polyester thread with a microtex needle, size 12 or maybe even a size 10. Rayon challis is a woven. It has a bit of mechanical "give" to it.

Experiment with stitch length and tension until you get seams that lie flat when sewn on the grain. Challis can be kind of challenging that way. And there's nothing you can do to fix seams that draw up after sewing, except take them out and try again! Sometimes you have to hold the seam in front of and behind the presser foot and pull it taut as you're sewing to get the seam line to lie flat.

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aquamarineerica

aquamarineerica
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Date: 4/6/12 1:40 PM

Thank you so much for the advice! I will try that. I haven't used a microtex needle yet either...many new things to try!

Erica

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solosmocker
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In reply to aquamarineerica <<


Date: 4/6/12 9:37 PM

Quote:
Also...is rayon considered a woven or more of a knit?


Rayon is the fiber the fabric is made from. It can be woven into either a woven or a knit.

It is not necessary to match the thread fiber to the fabric fiber and often times not the best solution. I also would go with a poly thread and a microtex needle.
-- Edited on 4/6/12 9:38 PM --

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pjrsews
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Date: 4/7/12 5:10 PM

I am curious. Where did you find black rayon challis? I was looking for some last fall and couldn't find any.

Marie367
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In reply to pjrsews <<


Date: 4/7/12 9:14 PM

Hancocks has it. I love rayon challis (I am not sure why). They have it in colors and prints. They usually have black.

aquamarineerica

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In reply to pjrsews <<


Date: 4/8/12 2:20 PM

I found it at JoAnn's here on the Oregon Coast.

Erica

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TessKwiltz
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In reply to pjrsews <<


Date: 4/9/12 11:20 AM

Quote: pjrsews
I am curious. Where did you find black rayon challis? I was looking for some last fall and couldn't find any.

Fabric.com has some now

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Tess

On threadpainting flowers: "How many colors are in a flower? ... How many do you have?" - Ellen Anne Eddy

Elona
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In reply to aquamarineerica <<


Date: 4/9/12 11:56 AM

The only suggestions I would add are these:

To deal with the slight stretchiness or drape, and thus help prevent puckering seams, try using the narrowest zigzag instead of a straight stitch. That will provide some give to the seam.

If the fabric is slithery and difficult and the garment is going to be washable, it helps to spray starch it and let it dry flat before cutting out (not necessary to iron afterwards). The starch washes right out after construction.

NM gal
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Date: 4/9/12 12:28 PM

Rayon SHRINKS.... wash before cutting.

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