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Forum > Fitting Woes > fitting help with V8648 ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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fitting help with V8648
ChrissyJ
ChrissyJ
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Date: 4/9/12 7:47 PM

I just started working on a simple sleeveless dress with square neckline, from Vogue 8648. I'm in the muslin fitting stage, and kind of new to this. I've done an FBA before (once!), but not with princess seams, and I want this dress to fit perfectly!

What do you think of my photos of the bodice? I think there's something going on with the shoulders or maybe just below that in the strap/armhole area. (You can see on the side photo that I've added in some fabric in the armhole for better coverage). I'm also not entirely sure that the amount of ease is appropriate. Finally, I don't know if the back looks ok or not - it's so hard to tell, even looking at a photo! Any thoughts anyone has about further adjustments to make would be so welcome. I'm continuing to work on the midriff and skirt, and will post more photos when they get put together.

By the way, the actual dress will be in a tropical weight wool and underlined with cotton batiste. I'm debating about including a lining, because I don't want the dress to get too warm, but with the wool I think I probably will want one because it's itchy.

front:


side:


back:

-- Edited on 4/9/12 7:48 PM --
-- Edited on 4/9/12 7:49 PM --

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to ChrissyJ <<


Date: 4/9/12 9:31 PM

One shoulder is lower and on the back you can see the diagonal wrinkles that should be fixed when you pin the shoulder to fit the slope.
You don't have the cb seam lines lined up and this makes it seem that you have more ease than you really do.
I don't think that the fit is bad, but I don't like how the princess seams bow out at the fullest part of the bust. It makes the bust look larger than it is. I'd add some to the side panel over the bust and remove the same amount from the center panel to straighten the line out. The easiest way to do this is to just draw a line in where you want the seam to be.
-- Edited on 4/9/12 9:32 PM --

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

ChrissyJ
ChrissyJ
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In reply to Nancy K <<


Date: 4/9/12 10:46 PM

Thanks for your input!

I took another look in the mirror, and I think the "bowing" you mentioned is an artifact of the way my husband took the photo. The princess lines look straight up and down in person. And the center back is also misleading, because my thread lines are for the zipper, not the CB. I'm pretty sure I pinned that correctly, using guides drawn on the muslin that aren't visible in the photo. I'm still trying to figure out how to fix the shoulder, there's no obvious (to me) extra fabric to pinch out. Maybe I need to let some out, rather than removing?

I should have the whole muslin assembled soon and can post photos of that tomorrow maybe.

Scheri
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Date: 4/10/12 0:51 AM

Are you doing the online craftsy class with Susan? If you are having troubles with fitting you can post pictures and questions on the Couture class.

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Scheri Manson
Edmonton, AB CANADA

Tizmehr
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Date: 4/10/12 9:00 AM

Try clipping the armhole seam allowance just a bit. There may be some distortion due to that. Also, in the Craftsy Couture class, Susan Khalje recommends increasing the height of the center back pieces so that the shoulders stay put. She points out that the lower front and back allow the strap to fall off the shoulder. That might be happening a little with your muslin.

PonPon's Mom
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Date: 4/10/12 9:27 AM

I think what the bust fit bowing is caused by the fullest part of the princess seam is just about 1/2' to low for your bust. Double check that the center of your bust is lined up with the fullest part of the princess curve.

ChrissyJ
ChrissyJ
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In reply to Scheri <<


Date: 4/10/12 1:35 PM

Yes I am, and I have. I got a little feedback, but figure more eyes and opinions are always good!

ChrissyJ
ChrissyJ
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Date: 4/10/12 1:38 PM

Here's the whole front view - what do the diagonal lines on the skirt mean? I kind of want to take in just a little bit right at the skirt/midriff side seams because it pokes out a little, would that help with the drape of the skirt?


-- Edited on 4/10/12 1:40 PM --

ChrissyJ
ChrissyJ
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Date: 4/10/12 1:40 PM

And here's the full back view. The middle seems wonky... Susan Khalje suggested playing around with the midriff/bodice horizontal seam, and maybe some of the vertical midriff seams, to get the wrinkles to smooth out. Any other thoughts?

Thanks to everyone for your help!

stirwatersblue
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In reply to Tizmehr <<


Date: 4/11/12 5:04 PM

Quote: Tizmehr
Susan Khalje recommends increasing the height of the center back pieces so that the shoulders stay put. She points out that the lower front and back allow the strap to fall off the shoulder.

Oh, my, yes. SO GLAD you mentioned this! I don't know if this is an issue for the OP currently, but I thought it was DEFINITELY worth seconding this, for posterity! This is an issue I learned about the hard way, drafting patterns for historical gowns, but I have NEVER seen it confirmed in a discussion of fitting everyday clothing.

The issue is exacerbated when you add sleeves, and when you're dealing with layers (where friction from the garment underneath drags on the sleeves). An otherwise snug fit in the bodice can keep shoulders/straps in place pretty well on a sleeveless garment, but inching up (or narrowing) that back neckline will help A LOT.

------
~Gem in the prairie

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