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Forum > Beginner's Forum > sewing elastic on necklines and leg bindings ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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sewing elastic on necklines and leg bindings
any tips on how to avoid puckering & other wonkiness?
USMCMom
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USMCMom  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/10/12 10:18 PM

I've been trying again, after a long hiatus, to make some panties. I have the KS 2908 pattern which so many people love, but have yet to make a wearable pair. I've pretty much nailed the process of getting the elastic on the waistline, but the leg bindings are absolutely hopeless. I seem to either run out of elastic before I run out of leg opening, or vice versa. I quarter, I mark, I pin.....And another wadder I'm sure I'm doing some very basic thing wrong, but I can't for the life of me figure out what it is. Neckline bindings without elastic are a bit hit or miss as well. I've watched Sarah Veblen's video and followed her instructions religiously, but never produced anything close to hers. Is this something that gets better with practice??? (Please say yes!) Does anyone have some sure fire insider tips they're willing to share about sewing elastic? Throw me a bone! Please!!

ryan's mom
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Date: 4/11/12 6:36 AM

Well, I do have a surefire tip, but it's for a serger. When I upgraded my serger to a Babylock Imagine, I bought all the accessory feet including the elastic foot. It is an AMAZING foot! The elastic goes into the groove on the top and fabric is fed normally into the bottom. The order of construction is best changed so that panty side seams are done last so the elastic is stitched and serged to the leg opening and waist opening in the flat as opposed to in the round.

Practice samples would need to be done to find just the right amount of tension (stretch) on the elastic via a screw adjustment, but once that's done it's a breeze.

No more marking, quartering, and stretching for me in most cases. I can now crank out panties in record time, and I even used the elastic foot to install all the elastic on my swimsuit.

I'm not sure if you have a serger or not, but an elastic foot rocks!

Doing it the traditional way? Yes, practice does make perfect. Although I'm not quite sure why you're running out of elastic with the traditional method. Are you stitching the elastic ends together first? I've never seen Sarah Veblen's video so I can't comment on that.

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Big 4 Pattern size 12, RTW bottom: 6, RTW jacket 8, RTW top (no size fits me well!)
Measurements: 34 HB/36 FB (34C bra)/27.5/36 (and working hard to keep it that way.)
Machines: Sewing: Elna 760, vintage Kenmore Model 33 (1967), Janome Gem Gold 3, Singer Model 99, Singer 221/Featherweight. Sergers: Babylock Imagine and Babylock Enlighten. Embroidery Only: Janome 300E. Embroidery/Sewing Combo: Brother Dream machine. Coverstitch: Babylock BLCS. Straight Stitch: Janome 1600P.

If you think your sewing is better than everyone else's around here, get out of my way b****. I hate sewing snobs.

My blog: www.phatchickdesigns.blogspot.com

TJSEWS
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TJSEWS  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/11/12 10:48 AM

I have watched Sara Veblen's video. When I tried it the first time, I had a similar problem to yours where I had too much binding even though I stretched it and quartered it as per her video.

Now what I do which works much better is a little math! For some reason, when I quarter, if there is a curve, it somehow doesn't get counted. I measure the opening and divide by 4. I do the same with the binding (make sure you stretched and cut off the excess as per her method). Once I have the binding, I measure the binding and divide by 4.

I then match the quarter markings and stretch while I sew. I have been very happy with the results thus far.

Hope this helps!

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Blog: www.sewmuchfashion.com

Judy Kski
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Judy Kski  Friend of PR
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In reply to TJSEWS <<


Date: 4/11/12 1:03 PM

Always be sure to keep in mind that if you are sewing with ribbing vice self-fabric binding, you need even less length to go around your neckline. Ribbing has a lot more stretch than self-fabric cut on the crosswise grain. Even with that in mind, self-fabric out of interlock has much less stretch than a knit with lycra or spandex in it. I know, so many variables, but they all weigh into your final results. Nobody wants to sew a wonky neckline.

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Judy

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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In reply to ryan's mom <<


Date: 4/11/12 4:33 PM

Quote: ryan's mom
The order of construction is best changed so that panty side seams are done last so the elastic is stitched and serged to the leg opening and waist opening in the flat as opposed to in the round.

This sounds like it might help whether you're using the magical elastic foot or not. Can anyone comment on that?

------
~Gem in the prairie

NhiHuynh
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NhiHuynh
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In reply to USMCMom <<


Date: 4/11/12 5:13 PM

I sew the elastic into a loop. I do the quarter and pin thing. Then I stretch the length in between the pins so the fabric and elastic are the same length. I have to hold the fabric in the front and back of the needle to do this. You will see when you get closer to the next pin if you're going to make it and adjust if you're not too off. If you get to the next pin ok, take out the pin a proceed to the next. I usually start with the front because its straighter just to build my confidence.

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I finally have a blog. www.detectivehoundstooth.com :)

ryan's mom
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In reply to stirwatersblue <<


Date: 4/11/12 7:18 PM

Absolutely it could be done like that. Whatever floats your boat.

ETA, if I wasn't using my serger and doing it "in the flat", I'd just use an elastic length 80% of the fabric length (of the opening). How did I decide on 80% for most openings? It's just a measurement that works for me.

Most of the time I don't look at the elastic measurement requirements in the pattern instructions. Those typically do not work for me.
-- Edited on 4/11/12 7:21 PM --

------
Big 4 Pattern size 12, RTW bottom: 6, RTW jacket 8, RTW top (no size fits me well!)
Measurements: 34 HB/36 FB (34C bra)/27.5/36 (and working hard to keep it that way.)
Machines: Sewing: Elna 760, vintage Kenmore Model 33 (1967), Janome Gem Gold 3, Singer Model 99, Singer 221/Featherweight. Sergers: Babylock Imagine and Babylock Enlighten. Embroidery Only: Janome 300E. Embroidery/Sewing Combo: Brother Dream machine. Coverstitch: Babylock BLCS. Straight Stitch: Janome 1600P.

If you think your sewing is better than everyone else's around here, get out of my way b****. I hate sewing snobs.

My blog: www.phatchickdesigns.blogspot.com

USMCMom
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Posts: 350
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Date: 4/12/12 11:20 PM

Sewing the leg binding in the flat makes sense! Like doing a sleeve! Ahh. A light comes on...

USMCMom
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In reply to ryan's mom <<


Date: 4/14/12 8:48 PM

Now you are giving me serger envy!UnfairHowever, I did spend today doing an undie-thon, muslin variety, and tried out sewing in the elastic flat. Works great! I suspect the problem I was having with the pinning method is that the fabric and/or elastic may have been shifting as I removed the pins in each section. Also, I'm still getting the hang of stretching the elastic without stretching the fabric...Anyhow, sewing the elastic in flat and putting more stretch in the back vs. the front of the panties seems to have done the trick. Not perfect yet, but definitely wearable and not riding up! I cut up some old t-shirts that were destined for Goodwill and made a few pairs, trying various tweaks. The muslins are cotton interlock, so not much stretch. I'll just cut the good ones a bit smaller. Thanks again for your advice.

Will post a review soon.

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