SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Forum > Fitting Woes > Back neck and the fold ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Back neck and the fold
JTink
star
JTink
Intermediate
Member since 4/20/08
Posts: 6217
Send Message

      



Date: 4/11/12 8:05 AM

I have a small shoulder/neck area and on most all my patterns I have to take in one inch on the shoulder and take in the upper back neck seam and facing.

I'm currently working on Simplicity 1920 View A. I'm morphing it with a 1 inch FBA. I added an inch to the front neck line blending back to the original before reaching the shoulder. I did NOT do the narrow shoulder adjustment, because I want the sleeves to come a little father over my shoulder in this case.

Now the back is my problem. I know a lot of you "dart out" the backneck, but I've never seen anyone explain how to do this on the pattern. Also, this pattern is placed on the fold. I tried to do what I call and L cut(same I use to take in my shoulders). By cutting down through the neck about 4 inches, making a turn and cutting over to the center back leaving a hinge(and L cut). After folding my dart out, the center back is no longer straight. How do I cut this on the fold? In "every day life" I would have just made a center back seam and taken a bigger seam the last few inches up through the neck line. But in this case, I'm making this to hang up in the class room at Joann Fabrics(I'm teaching the class). I want to be able to wear this blouse after the class is done, so I'm altering it to fit me...On the hanger, no one will be the wiser.

Do I line up the neck area, which is now about an inch off the fold and let the lower area of the blouse swing out, away from the fold, when cutting?

Elizabeth made this
starstar
Elizabeth made this  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Colorado USA
Member since 8/8/07
Posts: 493
Send Message

      



Date: 4/11/12 9:10 AM

I'd honestly try starting with a smaller size in your neck and shoulder area to start with. I don't narrow shoulders proportionally for my body, but I do in comparison to patterns (I'm petite). Narrow shoulder adjustments always helped the outer edge of the shoulder fit/look better, but it never helped me on the neck edge. If it was a short sleeve garment, the lack of weight in the sleeves would translate into poofing out the neck at CB. I tried darting, but I never liked how it looked. On longer sleeved garments, the weight of the sleeve seemed to pull the wide neck so it didn't poof anymore at CB, but the sleeves were falling off my shoulders again...

Then I saw a teacher who suggested measuring your shoulders from where you like them to fall from shoulder to shoulder, compare that measurement to your pattern and cut that size in your shoulders. Her logic was that since most garments hang from your shoulders (and not your high bust for instance) you'll be more successful if you cut what you need there. I'm a size bigger through my torso, so I just transition at the bottom of the armscye. Since I started doing this, I've never had to retrofit with darts or do a narrow shoulder adjustment. I hope that helps.

------
emadethis.wordpress.com

The best project you could be working on is the one that's on the table right now.

JTink
star
JTink
Intermediate
Member since 4/20/08
Posts: 6217
Send Message

      



In reply to Elizabeth made this <<


Date: 4/11/12 9:25 AM

Elizabeth, thank you. I do cut a smaller size for my neck shoulder area and morph out from the bust down. You are right, the narrow shoulder adjustment only deals with the shoulder and not the neck, for me anyway. I have to make that adjustment when wearing set in sleeves, because the garment shoulder would be falling down my arm It's just this nagging little extra I'm having in the back. If I make a "normal" dart on the pattern, it puffs and won't lay flat for cutting. That's why I like doing L cuts with hinges. I guess my biggest concern is cutting it on the fold and how it should be laying.

LauraTS
star
LauraTS  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
California USA
Member since 7/10/06
Posts: 2201
Send Message

      



Date: 4/12/12 1:20 AM

I don't know if the darting you mention is like what I do, but all I do is fold out a dart in the back neckline at a location where that doesn't mess up the neckline edge too much (I kinda true it as I cut - obviously for anything with a collar or a facing you'd have to adjust there too). It doesn't usually lay totally flat - I can usually take out ~1/2-1" without a big problem. The CB fold does get a little distorted, but I just align it as best I can. I have the feeling that is as clear as mud, sorry.

------
I've moved! Visit my new sewing blog at http://chiralcraft.wordpress.com

Do you sew from KnipMode? Join us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/knipmode_english/

Mc Donna
Mc Donna  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Massachusetts USA
Member since 1/2/10
Posts: 426
Send Message

      



In reply to JTink <<


Date: 4/12/12 2:44 AM

Quote:
Do I line up the neck area, which is now about an inch off the fold and let the lower area of the blouse swing out, away from the fold, when cutting?

I hope I'm understanding you correctly. You now have a 1" wide V shaped area that veers away from center back. If you do the above, your top will be offgrain, and you will have added circumference to the hem. Not sure this is what you would like. Instead, I would straighten the center back by adding tissue to take up the space of that 1" "V" which will allow you to cut on the fold, maintaining both your grainline and design. I would then slash the pattern at the neck edge until the patten lays flat. This will create two neck darts, one on each side of center back. When you stitch those darts, the shape returns to your fit. Does this make sense? HTH
-- Edited on 4/12/12 2:44 AM --
NhiHuynh
starstarstar
NhiHuynh
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 1/4/11
Posts: 806
Send Message

      



In reply to JTink <<


Date: 4/12/12 3:10 AM

So I think you're talking about a dart to account for an upper neck/back curve. I take about 1/2" - 1" dart at the top of the neck, ending maybe 4" down the back. I've taken a class with Cynthia Guffey on this. She said that almost all people need this adjustment along with a shoulder slope adjustment. She recommends adding a center back seam. Depending on the style I'll add a center back seam or taper the dart down to the shirt or jacket hem. The dart gets pretty skinny towards the bottom so I'm not adding a whole lot of extra width. I can also take the extra width out at the side seams or fisheye darts. For knits, I'll just try to flatten the pattern kinda wrinkly and the knit can stretch usually make up the difference.

------
I finally have a blog. www.detectivehoundstooth.com :)

JTink
star
JTink
Intermediate
Member since 4/20/08
Posts: 6217
Send Message

      



Date: 4/12/12 7:20 AM

Thank you all so much for the suggestions. I guess there is really no "right or wrong" way of doing this. I don't want to make darts on the garment. Anyother time I would make a center back seam, but I'm trying to keep this as true to the pattern as I can, because it's to be used as a display piece in the classroom. I want to be able to give the students the "look" of what the pattern is actually suppose to be. If I make a center back seam, it will not look like the original pattern.

I've already made so many adjustments to this simple little top, but to the "beginner's eye", they won't be able to tell the difference.

Phat Chick has a tutorial on her Blog about this adjustment, but hers is for only 1/2 inch in the back. I'm not sure how much I need to take out yet(I'm making a muslin today), I know it will be more than a half inch.

Thanks again ladies. I let you know what happens.

Miss Fairchild
starstarstarstar
Miss Fairchild
Advanced
USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 7936
Send Message

      



In reply to JTink <<


Date: 4/12/12 7:43 AM

I know I'm late to the party (again!) but I used to have this problem alot. What I do is I take tiny tucks, less than 1/4" and more like 1/8" deep, starting just below the shoulder seam in the back, evenly spaced and ending just in front of the fold; do this on the pattern only. If you need to make four tucks, just place them closer together. The tucks make the curve, and are small enough that even if you're using a woven, they will fall away towards the bottom of the bodice and won't change the grainline on the pattern. Don't forget to redraw your facing, or you can do the same with the facing (making the same tucks) .

EDITED TO ADD: The narrower and greater number of tucks, the better your neck will curve and accept the adjustment. If you have to take out 1/2", make just two tucks at 1/8" (1/4"x2=1/2"); 3/4" is three tucks, and 1'' is four tucks.
-- Edited on 4/12/12 7:50 AM --

------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

SEE MY ETSY SHOP HERE: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AuntMaymesAttic
My blog: http://auntmaymesattic.wordpress.com/

JTink
star
JTink
Intermediate
Member since 4/20/08
Posts: 6217
Send Message

      



In reply to Miss Fairchild <<


Date: 4/12/12 6:37 PM

Miss Fairchild, this sounds interesting, but I can't visualize it
Come to find out, after I made the muslin, I found I didn't need the alteration, the entire neck line was much to low and wide, so I just added an inch to the entire thing(front and Back) and there was no gaping...problem solved on this one. If I were making this "just for me" and not using it for a display piece at the store, I wouldn't have hesitated on making a back seam, and taking it in at the top. That's the "usual" way I correct this neck gap thing. It's the fold that was making this a real head scratcher

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> Back neck and the fold

Merchants on PR

Fitz Like a Glove Ironing Board Cover


Made In Australia
Deals!

Patterns from the Past


vintage sewing patterns
Deals!

Reconstructing History


Reconstructing History
Web site

Nature's Fabrics


Natural & Organic Fabrics
Deals!

Elliott Berman Textiles


Fabrics for Greater Ideas
Deals!

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Blueprints to Blue Jeans
Blueprints to Blue Jeans

Register

Fun with Fitting - PANTS
Fun with Fitting - PANTS

Register

Other Dressmaking with Liberty

photo
by: FreyaStark

Review
Sure-Fit Designs no number

photo
by: Skye

Review
Sewing Workshop Tosca Dress

Sewing Workshop Tosca Dress

Buy Now
Petite Plus 604 Pattern

Petite Plus 604 Pattern

Buy Now

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.