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Forum > Fitting Woes > Adding Cap Sleeves ( Moderated by Deepika, Jacqui315)

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Adding Cap Sleeves
Trouble with Fitting Sleeves
LizSabo
LizSabo
Member since 4/5/11
Posts: 15
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 4/12/12 5:11 PM

Hello,

I'm making a dress that's a blend of a few different patterns. (I'm working on the muslin currently.) But the bodice is basically Butterick 5317. This pattern has cap sleeves, but I wanted to add a sleeve that was still a cap, but completely in the arm hole. The problem I'm having after attaching the sleeve is that it is pulling the dress off my shoulders. Could this be because the shoulder needs to be wider, so that the sleeve cap hits lower oh my arm? Or should the sleeve cap alone be larger?

Any help or advice would be great!
Butterick 5317
AdaH
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AdaH
Iowa USA
Member since 11/21/09
Posts: 2505
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 4/12/12 7:30 PM

I am taking a class on Craftsy with Susan Khalje on couture dressmaking. The dress Susan is using as an example has the same low back neckline that your pattern does. Susan said anytime you have a back neckline that low and then have sleeves the sleeves will want to fall off your shoulders.
So it isn't anything that you did, it is the nature of the design.
In the class example she moved the back neckline up a lot.

------
Ada

sew2006
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sew2006
Ontario CANADA
Member since 6/24/06
Posts: 2377
Skill: Advanced
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In reply to LizSabo

Date: 4/12/12 9:49 PM

I garment with a sleeve will also have the underarm point a little bit away from the body to allow range of motion. Using the armhole shape from the same pattern as the sleeves may solve your problems.

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Janome10001, Babylock ESG3, Brother ULT 2001, White 634D serger, Pfaff 1472, Singer featherweight, Singer 14T957Dc, Bernina FunLock 009DCC coverlock, Brother PQ1500S, Janome CP900.

Twizard
Twizard  Friend of PR
Member since 2/11/12
Posts: 326
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Date: 4/14/12 10:06 PM

Is the bottom of the cap sleeve the same size as the arm scye? Is the depth the same? You can measure and alter it with a french curve. If the depths are different, that may be the problem, also.

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Pfaff 1471 and Passport 2.0, janome 8050, bernina 830LE & 580, Viking H 100Q; sergers singer quantum lock 5, baby lock protege, pfaff 794

LizSabo
LizSabo
Member since 4/5/11
Posts: 15
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 4/16/12 6:33 PM

Thanks for all the advice. I widened the sleeve cap and decided not to have the sleeve go completely around the arm hole, just a bit lower than the sleeve in the pattern. I haven't tried it on yet with both sleeves in, but with just one sleeve it seemed to fit much better. I'll have to take a look at those other spots, and perhaps alter the back if need be. Thanks again!
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