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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Making a cap sleeve a regular short sleeve ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Making a cap sleeve a regular short sleeve
New Look 6094
Arted
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Date: 4/13/12 11:51 AM

I am making the New Look dress version B and would like to change the cap sleeve to a regular short sleeve. I was planning to use New Look dress 6824 sleeve shorten. Any suggestions? This will be my first time trying this and will use a muslin first. Thanks for any suggestions.

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In reply to Arted <<


Date: 4/13/12 3:51 PM

6094 6824

Are these the patterns? You can't just interchange the sleeves since one (view B) is a raglan style and one is a set in sleeve. You would have to redraw the armhole of 6094 by laying 6824 over it to use the sleeve from 6824.
-- Edited on 4/13/12 3:55 PM --

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Subject: Making a cap sleeve into a regular short sleeve Date: 4/13/12 5:32 PM

See, I don't know what I'm doing. That was a help all ready.

So what I will do is go through my patterns and find a raglan sleeve and start there. Can I make the cap sleeve longer? I don't know. Thanks.
-- Edited on 4/13/12 5:35 PM --

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Date: 4/13/12 9:26 PM

Cap sleeves are tricky to draft nicely, and if women looked at themselves honestly in the mirror, they would see that the style is hard to wear, with enormously unflattering potential.

Take a look at the center pic in the fourth row from the top here to see the lovely, young Anne Hathaway wearing a cap-sleeved dress.

Be brave and zoom in on that particular photo for a really good look at why cap sleeves are truly best for those under about age 12, although those with athletic arms and taut skin can manage it a little past 30 or 35, maybe.

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In reply to Elona <<


Date: 4/14/12 12:28 PM

yes I agree, which is the reason I would like to make the cap sleeves into short sleeves. How do I do this?

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In reply to Arted <<


Date: 4/14/12 1:13 PM

Hi There,
New Look 6824 has a longer sleeve included and it's relatively easy to convert that to a short sleeve.

Here is a detailed way to get to the short sleeve:
1) Decide on length- Measure a garment short sleeve length you have and like. Or, start from where your sleeve cap joins the shoulder/armhole intersection and hang a tape measure down towards your elbow. Guestimate sleeve length.

2) Pattern work- Lay the tape measure from the cap seam allowance, NOT the cut edge. Position it from where you measured- at the sleeve cap meeting the shoulder seam. Mark the hemmed and finished length by drawing a line at right angles to the grainline. This line goes between the 2 sleeve seams. You can add a hem allowance now and use it in case you want your sleeve a tad longer. For your finished pattern, add the hem allowance to your finished sleeve length.

3) Check bicep fit for enough room. For wovens it should be minimum 2" above your bicep measurement. Often short sleeves are less fitted than a longer sleeve- the underarm seam can move wider towards the hem to give more ease.

4) Make muslin- Mark with pen a horizontal balance line at the bicep to check how the sleeve hangs. A sleeve hem on the cross grain has a classic fit is when the sleeve hem is parallel to the floor. If it swings up, looking at a front view and you are comfortable with moving your arms forward- you may prefer this look. For the more classic parallel to the floor you will have to do more work!

5) Adjust muslin- Release the cap stitching from the front notch to the back double notch. Try on and let it release until the sleeve hem is level. Add to the cap- eek! I know more cap to ease in. Well, you asked.

Best luck with your project and please let me know if you have further questions.

PS The new Sarah Veblen book has all this info and more. I've had great success with her classes- Bust Fit and Fun with Fitting Bodices.

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Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

marjoriekh
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Date: 4/14/12 1:16 PM

Arted, am I right in deducing from the pattern drawings that the as-drafted cap sleeve does not go all the way around the armscye? (That is, the bottom of the armscye is finished separately, and there is no seam at the inside of the sleeve?)

If so, it will make changing this sleeve harder. I've converted cap sleeves to regular short sleeves when they have extended all the way around the armscye, but so far not when they are designed the way your pattern is.

If you do have a raglan sleeve pattern that is somewhat similar, I think that could serve as a model, though I doubt you will simply be able to substitute -- there are so many variables in where the seams are placed with raglans.

Also, in my experience, a cap sleeve has added width at the hem compared to a short sleeve, so you may need to narrow it somewhat. As you go down the line in length - cap, short, 3/4, long, you'll usually find that each is drafted a little bit tighter around the upper arm -- this is the reason that chopping off long sleeves to short without adding some width at the hem often doesn't work well. (Take a look at a pattern you own that has multiple sleeve lengths drafted as one pattern piece, to see how width is handled for the different lengths.)

If you can find a raglan sleeve in your stash, try posting a photo of that sleeve pattern piece, with the pattern piece for this cap sleeve placed on top of it, grainlines parallel and trying as well as possible to match the shoulder lines (which will be somewhere in the middle of the sleeve pieces). There are people here who may be able to guide you with that visual info.

ETA: I was writing while wendyrb was posting, and now I'm not sure -- are you wanting to make NewLook 6094 or 6824? 6824 will be easy to change per her instructions; I was talking about 6094.
-- Edited on 4/14/12 1:20 PM --

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marjoriekh

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Date: 4/14/12 2:33 PM

Maybe I got confused on which dress and which sleeve? Can you use my post or not for your situation? If not, perhaps down the road it may be of use. As marjoriekh said, converting a cap sleeve is a whole other ball of wax. I've no experience to guide you on that. Good luck.

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Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

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Date: 4/14/12 3:12 PM

I did this recently for a Butterick 5677 with a cap raglan sleeve. You can draw in the missing lower part of the sleeve using the body pattern piece. There is no ease in the lower part of a sleeve (none anywhere on a raglan sleeve, usually), so you just copy the lower curve from the body piece.

As shown in this photo, I found it helpful to mark all four sides of the cap sleeve so I knew what to line up with what.



Tape extra pattern tissue to the sleeve (or trace out the sleeve and leave extra). Then roughly match up the notches and dots (or whatever match markings are available) and draw in the curve extension.



If your sleeve has a shoulder seam, remember to do the front and back sleeve.



Here you can see (on the right hand side of the photo) how the sleeve's underarm curve is a copy of the bodice's underarm curve.

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In reply to nicegirl <<
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Date: 4/14/12 3:27 PM

This is great, nicegirl, thanks.

Gee -- I even read your blog post on this when you reviewed it, and forgot you'd done this exact alteration. Now I've bookmarked it. This will come in very handy, as I've recently acquired that Muse pattern (inspired by your Mad Men version), and there's no way I'm making it out of a summer-weight knit. It'll have to have long sleeves.

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marjoriekh

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