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Forum > Beginner's Forum > Seam finish on Princess Seam ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Seam finish on Princess Seam
Dynamo
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Dynamo
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Date: 4/15/12 3:59 PM

How should I seam finish princess seams? I love using my serger to finish seams, now that I have one, but since I'll be clipping my princess seams serging doesn't seem the way to go! FYI I am working on Butterick 5638. I am using ramie, which is a natural fibre, similar to linen, and I feel I need some sort of seam finish in case it ravels.
emg
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emg
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In reply to Dynamo

Date: 4/15/12 7:09 PM

If you trim your seam allowances to 3/8 inch or 1/4 inch, the whole clipping thing becomes irrelevant. At least that's what I do. Then you can use any type of overedge stitch (including basic zigzag) to secure the fabric.
Dynamo
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Dynamo
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In reply to emg

Date: 4/15/12 7:52 PM

Thank you emg for your reply!
heathergwo
heathergwo
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Date: 4/15/12 8:35 PM

You could always do a narrow French seam to keep the ends from fraying.... if you don't want to serge them.

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Marie367
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Date: 4/15/12 9:23 PM

I have just made Simplicity 2648 It has princess seams. I basted it first to get the fit right and then when I was sure, I serged the seams. Then I pressed carefully. The seams turned out very nice. I agree with emg if you trim the seam short enough you do not have to worry about clipping. I don't think you can do a french seam on this type of seam because of the curves.
Dynamo
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Dynamo
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In reply to Marie367

Date: 4/16/12 11:35 AM

Simplicity 2648 looks very smart! I think I'm going to do just that ... trim and overedge but I'll wait til the very end in case I want to do any further adjustments. Thanks everyone!
cocosloft
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Date: 4/16/12 11:42 AM

I've had success with a narrow french seam using lightweight fabrics such as lawn, voile. The natural bias in the princess seam really helps the seam treatment - and serging would not work with these fabrics. On a heavier fabric, wool, wool blends, with underlinings, even heavy cottons, brocades, you might want to look at how to open this seam and treat it, it is a bit different. Happy sewing!

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Twizard
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Date: 4/20/12 10:22 PM

You can also serge (and trim) each edge separately, then sew and press the seam open, if the bulk is too much. I do that sometimes on fine fabrics. Or serge them both separately, one at 1/4, one at 3/8, then sew the seam on SM, so they are staggered for less bulk.

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lisalu
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In reply to heathergwo

Date: 4/21/12 8:58 AM

I've never heard of doing a French seam on a curved edge...have you actually done it? I thought French seams only worked on straight seams.

I do serge my princess seams and since it trims the seam to about 1/4", clipping isn't necessary. I suppose it depends on the fabric as to how well it would work but the last two projects I did with princess seams - one in satin, one in microsuede - it worked just fine.
Michelle L
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Michelle L
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In reply to lisalu
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Date: 4/21/12 9:04 AM

Lisa, I do french seams on curved seams all the time, including armscyes, pocket edges, and princess seams.

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Michelle

http://cheapandpicky.blogspot.com/

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