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Forum > Fitting Woes > adding to and taking away from shoulder seams ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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adding to and taking away from shoulder seams
which one to add to and why
mssewcrazy
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mssewcrazy  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/18/12 7:46 PM

I am thinking with a tank I am muslining that I might need to do an alteration I have heard mentioned on here which was something like taking the seam allowance from a shoulder seam and adding it to the other or something like that. I am wondering how that is done and why. Do you take off the front and add it to the back shoulder seam allowance or vice versa? Does that help add to the back and pull up the front some? I am sort of confused and can't find on here where that was discussed but I seem to remember several mention doing that as a usual alteration for themselves. If my back is getting rounder does that mean the shoulder seam has moved forward also. If any of you do that adjustment of adding or taking away the seam allowance between front and back I would appreciate any explanation of why before I goof up my next version trying to make something better and instead make it worse.

waikikimum
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Date: 4/18/12 9:14 PM

I always add an extra 1.5cm to my front shoulder seam and take it off my back shoulder as my shoulders hyperextend backwards due to a connective tissue disorder. I must add here that I haven't heard of anyone else doing this and the alteration is usually the other way - adding to the back and taking off the front.
If I don't add to the front shoulder seam it sits too far forward on my shoulder. At first I had trouble finding where the right point was but then I read that when looking in a mirror from both the front and back you should not be able to "see" the seam. I could always see the seam when looking from the front so I raised it by adding the 1.5cm.
Another thing I became aware of was that the back neckline was way too wide and caused the shoulder seam to fall forward and I was always hiking my tops backwards. I now always add a CB seam so I can take in the top of the back at the neckline. Once this area fits well I then fix the shoulder seam. I hope this helps.

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Kathy
Waikiki, Perth, Western Australia
http://waikikimum-sipandsew.blogspot.com/

Amy-may
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Amy-may
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Date: 4/18/12 9:32 PM

It's generally a forward shoulder adjustment. Years of computer/desk use/driving appear to rotate the shoulder forward making the shoulder seam sit too far back. take the excess off the front and add it to the back shoulder.

mssewcrazy
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Date: 4/18/12 9:47 PM

"when looking in a mirror from both the front and back you should not be able to "see" the seam. I could always see the seam when looking from the front so I raised it by adding the 1.5cm." This is helpful. When I have it back on I will have a look and "see" if any seam is visible as you described. Thanks.

mssewcrazy
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In reply to Amy-may <<


Date: 4/18/12 9:54 PM

That's what it is called-I had forgotten the term for it. I knew I had heard others mention this. I am probably in this category. This would probably help me in the front neck area also as it would pull up the necklines a bit in front. Thanks for the term and explanation,I can probably read more about this since I know what to search for.

sew2006
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Date: 4/18/12 11:06 PM

When fitting the shoulder/ neckline on a muslin I added extra wide seam allowance to the shoulder first. Pinned it in front of the mirror so that the seam was only visible on top of shoulder seam. The front shoulder on my patterns is more sloped at the neckline less where the sleeve would attach. For a garment with a sleeve try on with both sleeves to check range of motion.

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Janome10001, Babylock ESG3, Brother ULT 2001, White 634D serger, Pfaff 1472, Singer featherweight, Singer 14T957Dc, Bernina FunLock 009DCC coverlock, Brother PQ1500S, Janome CP900.

mssewcrazy
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In reply to sew2006 <<


Date: 4/19/12 1:15 PM

I never thought about building in some fitting insurance at the shoulder area. I made a slight sloped shoulder angle when I traced the pattern. I guess the next time I need to do the pinning thing and build some in. This is all very frustrating. I am bad now about messing up the patterns so much redoing them I don't know what I will end up with-so much cause and effect to the changes. I did look in the mirror with it on this morning and the seam seems slightly more visible from the front so on the next I will add 1/4 inch to the back and take from the front so I can assess it it is helping the situation when I cut and sew it again. Thanks for your thoughts.

marjoriekh
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Date: 4/19/12 1:26 PM

I find that my best fitting shoulder seam is visible from the front, slightly. Also, I have to pivot the seam forward a bit at the neck end. It took some trial and error to figure this out.

A simple muslin sleeveless bodice front and back, cut with 1 inch seam allowances at the shoulder, makes an easy fitting tool that you can play around with.

Find what works for you. It may be very different from what works for someone else.

------
marjoriekh

mssewcrazy
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In reply to marjoriekh <<


Date: 4/19/12 6:34 PM

I have now started noticing where the shoulder seams are on my garments and see some differences. I will keep looking and decide what is the most usual way it wants to be. I think adding this extra to the neck and the facings if using these would make it easier to work in this area a bit. The next one I cut I will try the pinning and try on routine at the shoulders and experiment a bit.

Nancy K
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In reply to mssewcrazy <<


Date: 4/19/12 7:34 PM

If your back has gotten rounder than you need a high round back alteration which isn't fixed by moving the shoulder seam.
The shoulder seam is moved if you have a forward shoulder and in that case the back shoulder seam at the shoulder moves forward, lets say about 1/2" and the line is drawn back to the existing neck edge. The front shoulder would have about 1/2" taken off at the shoulder point and drawn back to the neckline seam. You could just draw this triangle on the front and cut it off and attach it to the back but I find it just easier to cut off the front and add to the back and draw on the triangle.
If you have a forward neck/head then I believe that you add to the entire shoulder seam in the back and take off the same amount from the front.
How do you know what you need? Make a muslin and see where the shoulder falls on you. See where the back neck edge hits your neck. You will generally have to make the same adjustments every time with across brands.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

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