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Am I done here?
Style Arc Linda Pants
brissie71
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brissie71
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Date: 4/20/12 0:26 AM

Hi all,

A little background:
I've been working on fitting the Style Arc Linda pants for months. I feel a bit frustrated that I'm not getting that same excellent fit out of the envelope that it seems everyone else is raving about, so that may be feeding in to my attitude a little here. Also, due to body shape issues, I may be hyper-focusing on the wrinkles and need a little perspective. If so, please feel free to dish that out...

Here is my first muslin of the Style Arc Linda Pants - no changes at all. Made with a medium-heavy weight stretch twill.



Here is my first 'real' version - made in the bengaline that the pattern calls for.



I know that black is a particularly poor colour to see wrinkles, but there are still some diagonal wrinkles making themselves known on the back.

Here is the second 'real' pair I've made - made in a heavier weight stretch twill.



It's clearly evident that there are still a ton of wrinkles in the back.

I've made multiple muslins to get to this stage and I can't see any real improvement between my latest pair and my first muslin.

I've tried:
- adding to the crotch points (a la Pants for Real People)
- scooping out the back crotch curve
- a full inner thigh adjustment (a la Minott)
- a full inner thigh adjustment (a la Singer)
- taking my crotch curve (with the flexible ruler) and transferring that to the pattern

I'm out of things to try. Am I doomed to never getting this pattern to fit me properly?

Or is this good enough? Would YOU settle for this fit?

Have I just become obsessed with this pattern and need to move on?

-- Edited on 4/20/12 2:32 AM -- (think I've got the pictures thing sorted out now )
-- Edited on 4/22/12 3:03 AM --

------
Kelley (Brisbane, QLD)
http://simplesewist.blogspot.com.au/

loti
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In reply to brissie71 <<
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Date: 4/20/12 1:13 AM

Yes you are obsessed but I do the same thing. It is really difficult to tell anything on the black version.


I can't tell but you and I may have the same issue with prominent calves. Does the fabric rest on the calves? If so, I have the solution for you... let's see if I can find it..prominent calves.

I made this same adjustment when I couldn't eliminate the wrinkles under the bottom.

------
"A girl should be two things: classy and fabulous.
Coco Chanel

Stash Sewn in 2011 148.5 Yds
Stash Sewn in 2012.... counting...

http://adonising.blogspot.com

jannw
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In reply to brissie71 <<


Date: 4/20/12 1:24 AM

The fronts and the side look really good! I do hope loti's link will help. I do get that type of wrinkling is some pants also, so I will keep an eye here to see what suggestions you get. It was pointed out to me though that some may be a bit of "sit down" ease...

I really love your top!! Did you make it?? What's the pattern, if so? It looks so good on you and with those pants.

------
2009-113.25 yds
2010-115.5
2011-80.25+30+donated
2012 86.3 yds..
2013 21.0
Everyone who sews seriously has a stockpile of fabrics, because it is natural to purchase more than can be sewn in any one season" Singer, Timesaving Sewing, 1987

goosegreen
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Date: 4/20/12 2:40 AM

The calf adjustment is def needed IMO. You can see how the side seam is just so slightly swinging to the back below the knee. It's amazing how much this adjustment alone changes things. Try that first, do another toile & then see what's going on.

------
Alison in suburbia - Sydney Australia
My sewing blog: http://nosilasews.blogspot.com/

Keeper of the flock - Janome MC8000, Janome MC4900QC, Elna Elina 40, Husqvarna Rose, Singer 201K, Elna Contessa, Janome My Excel 18W, Janome 634D & 534D overlockers, Janome Coverpro 1000CPX.

Sew4Fun
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In reply to brissie71 <<
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Date: 4/20/12 3:12 AM

Hi Kelley,
Here's my two cents, or five given two cent coins don't exist anymore.

If it makes you feel any better the fit of your white pants is very similar to how the Linda pants fit me out of the envelope. Very well IMHO. They only need one alteration - to shift the back leg inwards.

The diagonal wrinkles you are getting are because the leg is in the wrong position relative to the upper part of the pants, for your body shape. If you read my review I've shown the alteration I made to the Lindas to fix this. I also wrote something on my blog a while ago about this alteration here. It's something I need to alter on a lot of pant patterns. HTH


Btw, your link to the back view on the white pants isn't working. Here is the link.

-- Edited on 4/20/12 5:16 AM --

------
Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

brissie71
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brissie71
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In reply to Sew4Fun <<


Date: 4/20/12 3:41 AM

Hi Belinda,

I was selfishly hoping you'd chime in.

Thanks for the encouragement with the original fit. It's good to know that all is not lost.

I know the post of yours to which you are referring. I have it printed out and I'm fairly certain it was one of the things I tried. I'll double check to be sure. If not, then it is definitely on my agenda.

Thanks again. I appreciate your help.

------
Kelley (Brisbane, QLD)
http://simplesewist.blogspot.com.au/

brissie71
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brissie71
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In reply to loti <<


Date: 4/20/12 3:45 AM

Thanks, Loti. I'll be sure to give that a try. It definitely seems as though it could be an issue.

------
Kelley (Brisbane, QLD)
http://simplesewist.blogspot.com.au/

brissie71
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brissie71
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In reply to jannw <<


Date: 4/20/12 3:47 AM

I'm hoping that I'll get the magic answer to all my fitting problems, so I'll be keeping an eye out, too!

Unfortunately, I didn't make the top. It's just a cheapy from Kmart (I'm guessing an Aussie version of Walmart?). It's super comfy, though. I wish I had a pattern for it.

------
Kelley (Brisbane, QLD)
http://simplesewist.blogspot.com.au/

Kathy7661
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Kathy7661
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In reply to Sew4Fun <<


Date: 4/20/12 9:17 AM

Belinda, your blog is great!

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Kathy7661

loti
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Date: 4/20/12 10:45 AM

I've just reread my blog post and I left something out.

Find the back of the knee on your muslin and mark that level on your pattern.

Draw another mark 3" up, mark the center of the leg at this same point. (This is the first cut from the hem to 3" beyond the knee)

Draw a line perpendicular to this one from side seam to side seam.
(These are the next two cuts from side seam to side seam. Cut to the sideseam line from the center of the leg out, and from the seam allowance in, so that you can pivot the pattern outward)

I determined the width of the slash by ripping the side seam stitching on the muslin (you can do one leg only) from the hem to 3" above the knee. Slip them back on and note how much of a gap is created at the side seams. Make sure the bottom of the pant isn't catching on shoes, and if it's a stiff fabric, make sure it isn't folding up on the floor (this may throw the adjustment off). Ideally the pants should be hanging free, so you can see exactly how far the side seams spread.

If you need visuals let me know, I'll have some time this afternoon.

------
"A girl should be two things: classy and fabulous.
Coco Chanel

Stash Sewn in 2011 148.5 Yds
Stash Sewn in 2012.... counting...

http://adonising.blogspot.com

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