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Fitting neck and shoulders
problems with height of back neckline
sewing bee

sewing bee
Advanced Beginner
Oregon USA
Member since 12/14/04
Posts: 64
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Date: 4/21/12 2:38 PM

I am working on tissue fitting for Simplicity 1882 Amazing Fit dress.
Simp 1882
My first challenge is the back neckline & shoulder. This is a common problem for me in sewing and RTW -- the neckline at CB is too high on my neck -- at least 1/2" above where it should fall.
photo
I have seen adjustments for this effect at the front neckline, and I am applying the same fix -- just lowering the neck opening to the level it needs to be. At the same time, I need more length for the shoulder. Seems like a lot of give and take in a very small space, so I wonder if there is a better way to handle these adjustments. Here are the altered pattern pieces for front and back -- original is in pencil and my changes are in green.
photo
photo

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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AUSTRALIA
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Date: 4/22/12 2:47 AM

Looks pretty good to me, but it seems you have shortened the back shoulder line by widening the neckline. Will you add some at the scye?

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Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to sewing bee <<


Date: 4/22/12 8:26 PM

The green line for your shoulder needs to start in the corner of the neckline then curve. Otherwise, you've added more to the neck, rather than just curve more in the back.

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beginagain
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beginagain  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/22/12 11:14 PM

This is a different thought. Check the bust. I thought I needed this type of alteration because everything crawled up my neck and my shoulder seams were slightly forward. It turned out that I needed more length in front. A FBA solved the problem.

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sewing bee

sewing bee
Advanced Beginner
Oregon USA
Member since 12/14/04
Posts: 64
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In reply to Miss Fairchild <<


Date: 4/23/12 9:28 AM

Quote: Miss Fairchild
The green line for your shoulder needs to start in the corner of the neckline then curve. Otherwise, you've added more to the neck, rather than just curve more in the back.


That's pretty much the crux of my problem. This does add to the neck, so I need to alter the collar. On the armhole side, I have raised the whole armsyce as I raised the shoulder, so the sleeve doesn't change, but I haven't found a way to make the neckline fix without increasing the length of the neckline seam. I tend to like patterns with unusual collars & necklines, so I am hoping to find a simpler way to make this alteration that wouldn't require redrafting the collar each time.

beginagain: I've had that problem too, but on this project, I think the FBA is sufficient. The front neckline and shoulder are pretty smooth, so the whole shoulder area isn't being pushed up, just the CB.

Lena: Thanks, I'll check the shoulder width -- it should be the same but maybe my tracing slipped!

Thanks for your replies!
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