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Forum > Sewing Techniques and Tips > gathering on a bodice ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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gathering on a bodice
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threaddy
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threaddy  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/23/12 10:24 PM

When a pattern calls for even placement of gathers on a bodice do you try to put more gathers at the edges? I am thinking it looks better to not have as much gathering right at the front, if the gathers are more at the edges it might look slimmer....? Just wondering if anyone monkeys with this. I looked in the archives and it does not seem this has been talked about.

------
"The problem is not that there are problems. The problem is expecting otherwise and thinking that having problems is a problem." Theodore Rubin
"Life isn't about finding yourself. Life's about creating yourself." George Bernard Shaw
Dan 9:24-27

Bernina vintage and computerized, Bernina and BL sergers , BLcoverstitch (a stray Pfaff and Viking followed me home too)

wendyrb
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In reply to threaddy <<


Date: 4/23/12 10:54 PM

Good question with a couple of variables:

* What's your body type: if the gathers are not needed for fitting a smaller bust, they are more decorative. Then you have more leeway to place them how you prefer. For a fuller bust, the gathers function as a dart and you want to concentrate them over the fullest area. I recently saw a pattern with sparse gathers placed in between the breasts. They clumped in the cleavage and the bust had little ease- unattractive!

* How much fabric is gathered- is it light gathers, medium a ratio of 1 1/2 to 1, or heavier 2 to 1? With more to gathers, you can spread it across the bodice. With less, I'd place them in from the armhole area to have enough where you need it over the bust.

* Type of fabric- with thin drapey fabric that collapses against the body, you are freer to place as you wish. For bulkier cloth, I'd steer clear of the armhole area by at least an inch and a 1/2. Any closer and the gathers will poof out making a wider silhouette.

There's probably other considerations. I realize I'm assuming the gathers are coming down from the shoulders or a yoke across the entire front. My suggestions would apply if the gathers are at the waist and release up to the bust line. HTH.

------
Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

threaddy
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In reply to wendyrb <<


Date: 4/24/12 1:28 AM

Thank you so much for your answer! This is a flannel type woven with a knit cowl neck. I am a bit busty so need less fabric in that area. I just "futzed" with my gathers and found less gathers in the bust area and more over to the side was lovely. It left enough room for drape and movement yet did not make my bust look too full (in fact it created a thinning result which is what I was hoping for ) You are correct to question the body type. I think for a thin less busty person an even gather would look good. As result of my manipulating the gathers I changed what could have been a bulky fattening effect to a very pleasing silhouette. I would encourage everyone to fool around with gather placement and not just follow the pattern. (After all this is why we sew isn't it...to make things that fit our bodies, not a models!) The fabric type and body type need to be considered as you so well discussed. I am going to print out your answer and add it to my file. Thank you so very much!
BTW..the same would apply to a skirt...if one has a tummy ,a lot of gathers in that area would make it pooch out...if one moved the gathers more to each side it might help.

------
"The problem is not that there are problems. The problem is expecting otherwise and thinking that having problems is a problem." Theodore Rubin
"Life isn't about finding yourself. Life's about creating yourself." George Bernard Shaw
Dan 9:24-27

Bernina vintage and computerized, Bernina and BL sergers , BLcoverstitch (a stray Pfaff and Viking followed me home too)

wendyrb
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In reply to threaddy <<


Date: 4/24/12 2:04 AM

Call it futzing around, or call it draping for a custom look. Your approach is really the best way to design. Playing with the actual fabric on the body will give you ideas for the most flattering look. I'm glad you found your way to getting the shape you were imagining. Isn't that satisfying!

I really enjoy this aspect of sewing- tinkering and making small adjustments to create something truly pleasing for my particular body. As you say it's a big motivator to sew. I also keep notes for down the road when a similar situation arises. Sometimes I get a garment to a pretty much technically fit, but it's not beautiful. I like problem solving until I overcome that barrier and make it my own. Don't get me wrong- I still have plenty of fit conundrums. The Sarah Veblen classes have been very, very helpful. She is a master of these things.

------
Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

threaddy
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In reply to wendyrb <<


Date: 4/24/12 9:56 AM

Thanks for mentioning Sarah. I will look at taking some of her classes. You might call it draping....I call it futzing
-- Edited on 4/24/12 11:54 AM --

------
"The problem is not that there are problems. The problem is expecting otherwise and thinking that having problems is a problem." Theodore Rubin
"Life isn't about finding yourself. Life's about creating yourself." George Bernard Shaw
Dan 9:24-27

Bernina vintage and computerized, Bernina and BL sergers , BLcoverstitch (a stray Pfaff and Viking followed me home too)

landstromd
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Date: 4/25/12 9:19 PM

Well, I thank you for your futzing or draping! I never thought of placing the gathers off to the sides, it seems so obvious for those of us with the big tummies, not saying you have one, you mentioned a need for a bust consideration. However, with the gathers on the side for both bodice/waists as well as skirt/pants waists, it would help to combat the 'pregnant at 60' look! This is why I LOVE pattern review, I never even thought of this option to futz, and as a result, too many dresses lately have ended up unfinished in the scrap bag for the local junior high to practice on! thanks so much for whatever it is called!

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