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Fitting the clover pattern
janecharlotte
janecharlotte
Member since 12/25/09
Posts: 21
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Date: 4/27/12 0:59 AM

Eek, look at these- I have used the clover pattern from Colette- I am having major fitting issues- I had to do a full butt adjustment but they are still pulling down at the back waist so might have to add a bit more. I also had to do a large calf adjustment as they were pulling. Now the back leg is much too big- should I grade it down on inner and outer leg? The front leg looks baggy too, from mid thigh down.

Also there are wrinkles at the front crotch. Any ideas on how to remove the drag lines at the back and make them a better fit pant? They are supposed to be slim but they look terrible.

janecharlotte
janecharlotte
Member since 12/25/09
Posts: 21

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Date: 4/27/12 1:00 AM

janecharlotte
janecharlotte
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Posts: 21
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Date: 4/27/12 1:01 AM

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janecharlotte
janecharlotte
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Posts: 21
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Date: 4/27/12 1:03 AM

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janecharlotte
janecharlotte
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Date: 4/27/12 1:04 AM

side

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Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
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Date: 4/27/12 2:33 AM

A few things I see:
1) You need a fisheye dart at the place where your upper thigh meets your bum. (back view) 1/2" deep, then tapering to nothing at sides.
2) The leg length is too long between your knee and going upward (side view) Shorten the leg length
3) Grade the leg on both the inner and outer seams.
4) Pulling down at the back can mean you have a sway back (your sides are higher than the middle of your back)

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janecharlotte
janecharlotte
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Posts: 21
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Date: 4/27/12 3:46 AM

Thank you for that. I have made sway back adjustments on other garments but thought the biggest problem here was my bigger derriere! I will try the other adjustments and see how they fit :)

Sewliz
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Date: 4/27/12 12:04 PM

To me it looks like the one place where your shape differs from average shape the pattern is drafted for is in the front thighs. I don't see that you need a full butt adjustment for your shape. If I were sewing this for you I would start over with the original pattern and do only a full thigh alteration and see what effect that has before doing any other alterations.

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janecharlotte
janecharlotte
Member since 12/25/09
Posts: 21
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In reply to Sewliz <<


Date: 4/28/12 11:35 PM

Thanks- I think you might be right Would that explain the pulling around the knee (drag lines etc)? I am working on another pair of trousers (woven) and have similar issues with vertical drag lines from the hip to the knee.

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