KitnRose
Intermediate
TX USA
Member since 6/18/03
Posts: 2025 |
Login to reply to this post
Date: 4/28/12 1:25 AM Background - I have "athletic" thighs and a small waist which are a pain to fit even witha simple pencil skirt. Just cutting the pattern a size larger at the thighs doesn't fully work as the skirt "caves in" over my hips. I've spent the last decade trying to fix that and the best I can get with most fabrics is just decent. The side seams always seem to add weight and fit poorly, no matter how I mess with them.
Fast forwards to last weekend. I found a skirt at Goodwill that fit amazingly over my sides. Smooth, no caving or bulging - and no side seams! It was a 6 gore skirt with seams at CF, CB, and at the places darts are usually found. Sides were seamless. So that got me curious - would eliminating side seams be the best way to go? Is the extra bulk there possibly causing some problems and keeping the fabric from flowing properly? Am I just engaging in some wistful thinking in light of my fitting frustrations? ------
Kit
"Never underestimate the power of the right dress!" - drsue
"Hyu gots to know how to sveet tok de costumers, dollink" - Girl Genius, 11-24-08 |
jadamo00
Advanced
NY USA
Member since 3/13/06
Posts: 1231 |
Login to reply to this post
Date: 4/28/12 9:05 AM Well, a 6 panel skirt doesn't really reduce seam bulk at the waist because instead of 2 seams, you have 6.
On the other hand, the fabric reduction from hips to waist is more evenly distributed in a 6 panel skirt, as it gets gradually smaller and smaller with straight seams on 6 panels, instead of curved ones on just 2 panels.
You can definately buy 6 panel skirt patterns. If not current ones, then an out-of-print on eBay LIKE THIS ONE.
It looks like views A and B have 6 panels. A classic! You could make this skirt a gazillion ways! Always flattering no matter what's in or out. HOW GORGEOUS IS THAT SKIRT?!!! And there's plenty of swishy movement at the hem which looks so cute when we walk! (Um, not you Men Who Sew  )
-- Edited on 4/28/12 10:07 AM -- |
KitnRose
Intermediate
TX USA
Member since 6/18/03
Posts: 2025 |
Login to reply to this post
Date: 4/28/12 10:03 AM Thank you, though I suppose I should clarify - new skirt is probably better termed a 6 panel skirt as it's pretty much a pencil skirt with seams at CF and CB as well as where you'd normally have darts.
The waist isn't as much an issue as the hips/ thighs. I could probably solve a lot of my problems by switching to a-line skirts but I've never liked how they look on me. Just too much volume, even with that slight flare. ------
Kit
"Never underestimate the power of the right dress!" - drsue
"Hyu gots to know how to sveet tok de costumers, dollink" - Girl Genius, 11-24-08 |
shana707
Advanced
PA USA
Member since 3/23/05
Posts: 187 |
Login to reply to this post
Date: 4/28/12 10:07 AM Can you copy the skirt? If you can, you've got a TNT! |
jadamo00
Advanced
NY USA
Member since 3/13/06
Posts: 1231 |
Login to reply to this post
Date: 4/28/12 10:09 AM Right, copy the skirt! That would be the perfect solution!
j. |
tourist
 
Intermediate
BC CANADA
Member since 7/23/07
Posts: 5401 |
Login to reply to this post
Date: 4/28/12 10:10 AM Kit - gored or paneled skirts would be a really good choice for you, I think. I love the gored skirts I have because they can be made to accommodate my sway back very nicely. I can take in little bits from several seams instead of trying to fit darts or having a huge chunk out of the CB seam.
For a pencil skirt you could probably take 6 or 8 rectangular panels (with the width to fit your hips plus seam allowances) and pin fit them until you get the shape that works for you. Sounds like a fun project! ------
http://bgballroom.wordpress.com to follow the progress on my next ballgown. |
KitnRose
Intermediate
TX USA
Member since 6/18/03
Posts: 2025 |
Login to reply to this post
Date: 4/28/12 10:27 AM Quote: shana707
Can you copy the skirt? If you can, you've got a TNT!
Stop making it so simple!  I'm definitely taking measurements from the skirt for my next stab at a TNT skirt. Unfortunately the back isnt perfect (though far better than most RTW) so some fitting would need to be done still. But the sides look great!
I'm mostly curious about WHY the side seams appear to be such a problem for me and when it would seem that the fitting aid would be most needed there.
I found a vintage one-seam skirt pattern recently and I think that will be my starting base. Thank you for all the suggestions! After a year of focusing on school, I found my body changed just enough that my old TNTs aren't so true anymore. Sigh. And I put so much work into them too. ------
Kit
"Never underestimate the power of the right dress!" - drsue
"Hyu gots to know how to sveet tok de costumers, dollink" - Girl Genius, 11-24-08 |
tigergirl
Advanced Beginner
AUSTRALIA
Member since 11/30/09
Posts: 175 |
Login to reply to this post
Date: 4/28/12 10:15 PM Quote: KitnRose
would eliminating side seams be the best way to go? Is the extra bulk there possibly causing some problems and keeping the fabric from flowing properly?
I think you've hit the nail on the head. I have problems with those seams too - sometimes it's ok, other times it's a hot mess (esp. if the sa decides to turn from one side to the other exactly at my widest part and add an inch to each thigh)------
Brother BM-2600
Janome 693
Lumina Overlocker (Serger)
http://tigergirladventures.blogspot.com/ |
E.A.Y.
Advanced
CA
Member since 1/25/12
Posts: 14 |
Login to reply to this post
Date: 4/29/12 2:16 AM Had an old Vogue designer pattern from the late 1980s: jacket had asym construction but that's not important.
The skirt was narrow and had extremely curved side seams. It always reminded me of.the seams on a baseball. It fit very well and was flattering. I don't have the pattern any more but when I'm home again I can take a pic of the skirt if you'd like.
It totally does not fit anymore but it is my motivation to keep losing weight so I've kept it all this time. ------
Cotton: 37 yards
Linen: 6 yards
Silk: 16 yards
Wool: 15 yards
Lining: 14 yards |
lakaribane
Beginner
HAITI
Member since 7/23/07
Posts: 1745 |
Login to reply to this post
Date: 5/5/12 7:44 AM Stepalica just did a a post about a similar skirt she drafted
Of course, there's a hidden dart in the seam at the waist but I love the slight flare of the hem. Beatiful skirt! ------
Fashion Maté, where I blog about what I (eventually) sew : http://fashionmate.blogspot.com
Addicted to Pinterest? Me too! : http://pinterest.com/lakaribane/ |
|Login|Help]
Printable Version
