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Forum > Fitting Woes > jeans yoke/centre back fit question ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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jeans yoke/centre back fit question
horizontal wrinkle below yoke
E.A.Y.
E.A.Y.
Member since 1/25/12
Posts: 16
Skill: Advanced
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Date: 4/28/12 5:49 PM

I've nearly finished Mark 3 of my Jalie stretch jeans, just waiting on rivets and a button. (My WIP review is here (these denim Mark 3s will not appear in the review until I can get a full series of photos WITH rivets and so on.)

Anyway, I am super pleased with nearly all of the fit, except for the very center back below the yoke.



Is the seam below the yoke just a bit too long? Is there insufficient fabric width there? Both? Neither?

I altered the yoke significantly to get rid of a HUGE gap in the center back.


My pattern piece is lying on top of the original Jalie piece (I used size FF, which is the largest one). The penciled line with an X is the original line of the yoke in size FF. I altered the grain also.
I lengthened the center back of the yoke a bit to keep the center back of the waist from being too low.

And I changed the center back seam of the back just a little bit (the red dots are where I actually sewed the seam on this denim version).


I'm assuming my wrinkle problem comes from my gung-ho yoke alterations, although the problem appears BELOW the yoke.

Ideas?

------
Cotton: 37 yards
Linen: 6 yards
Silk: 16 yards
Wool: 15 yards
Lining: 14 yards

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
New South Wales Australia
Member since 2/5/09
Posts: 636
Skill: Expert/Couture
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Date: 4/28/12 7:32 PM

I know EXACTLY what happened hereBeen there! As you altered the pattern to remove the gap you had to slant your CB seam. The little ripple appeared where you have "broken" the seam - a small angle appeared and now it is a ripple. All you have to do is smoothe CB all the way to make the line as kink free as possible

------
Custom clothier and pattern designer. www.iconicpatterns.com

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