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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > How to modify a sloper

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How to modify a sloper
Modify a pant sloper for lifting knees
leskinner
leskinner
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 4/26/06
Posts: 4
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Date: 4/29/12 2:43 PM

Hi All-
I think I may have a unique problem and I can't find the solution so I thought I'd ask other sewers. I have drafted a pant sloper and made 3 muslins so far. My problem stems from a car accident 3 yrs. ago when I broke my neck. Now, I drive my husbands big truck which I get in by lifting my leg up (bringing my knee up above my waist), grab the steering wheel and pull myself up into the cab. I would like to make stretch-woven pants, but my muslins have all been tight in the knee and across my bum when I do the movement. I have widened the legs, but the pants look like clown pants now. Does anyone have any suggestions of how to get the knee room, other than bloomers, leotards, (or buying a new car)?

Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild  Friend of PR
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USA
Member since 8/24/02
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In reply to leskinner <<


Date: 4/29/12 7:48 PM

Change the knee level on the pattern. Most patterns have a knee level at the midpoint between the upper thigh and the ankle. I found that mine is off, and many times (before I found this out), I would feel like I was "walking in a box" which was the same problem you described when you get into the truck. The lower portion of my leg, knee to ankle, is longer than the upper portion. Once I fixed this, by raising the knee level, I had more room. Maybe raising the knee level would work for you.

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Luckylibbet
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Luckylibbet
CA USA
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In reply to leskinner <<


Date: 4/30/12 4:05 PM

Maybe a knee gusset?

This page 6th drawing down on the left, shows a knee gusset insertion.

Don't ask me how to do it, though - no clue!

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jaeng
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jaeng
Intermediate
NJ USA
Member since 3/8/06
Posts: 486
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Date: 4/30/12 6:51 PM

I had sewn many pairs of boy pants that has four darts around the knee. I think it is easy to draft that



To add darts
1. find you knee line on the front pattern.
2. estimate the area where the dart should be
3. draw dart lines from left to right (straight) for both top and bottom. extend the grain line to this area as well
4. cut the dart lines and insert the paper behind them with many short tapes. Keep patterns pieces on the grain line.
How much should you add? depend on how deep of the darts you would like. I imagine adding about 3/4".
5. Now you can draw 4 darts
-- Edited on 4/30/12 7:16 PM --
-- Edited on 4/30/12 7:18 PM --

leskinner
leskinner
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 4/26/06
Posts: 4
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In reply to Miss Fairchild <<


Date: 5/4/12 8:42 PM

Miss Fairchild-
Thank you for your reply to my post. I re-measured where my knee is and compared it to my sloper. I found that my knee is 1 3/4 inches higher than the sloper knee, which was drafted at the normal halfway position. Surprise. I'm going to revise my sloper (again) and see if that makes a difference as far as movement. I very much appreciate your point of view.

leskinner
leskinner
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 4/26/06
Posts: 4
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In reply to Luckylibbet <<


Date: 5/5/12 10:21 AM

Luckylibbet-
Thank you for your input towards resolving my problem. This is a creative and novel concept. From the drawing it appears that there are 2 strips going around the front of the knee like a beach ball, in addition to the gussets at inseam and outer seam at knee level. I'm thinking this would give the needed knee room when the knee is bent. When standing, it might be poochy. I think an advanced sewer might be able to make this work, but, alas, I'm not that good. I enjoyed the design "WOW" though.

leskinner
leskinner
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 4/26/06
Posts: 4
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In reply to jaeng <<


Date: 5/5/12 10:33 AM

Jaeng-
Thank you for your reply. I have never seen this concept for knees. I think it would definitely give more knee room, but not sure how much it would pooch when standing. Probably, would need stiff fabric like denim? I'd need to try a leg with the darts in the fabric I want to use to find out if it works. Great and interesting idea. Thanks.

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