meleliza
 Intermediate PA Member since 5/4/11 Posts: 493 |
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Date: 4/30/12 9:17 AM After taking the Couture Dress class on craftsy, I bought a whole supply of the waxed dressmaker's tracing paper. It seemed like a life changing tool when I watched Susan Khalje use it, but at home I've realized that I will need a little practice. I don't plan to make an actual fully couture dress very often, but it seemed as though I could use this stuff for all kinds of sewing applications. I wondered if anyone had tips? Or maybe wants to share how you use it? Serrated wheel or smooth? Muslins only or on fashion fabric too? Which colors for what?
For example, I accidentally got some of the blue stuff on fashion fabric where it will show through. Yikes! It doesn't really want to come out.... ------ Melanie |
KathySews
 Advanced Beginner MI USA Member since 10/1/06 Posts: 2898 |
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Date: 4/30/12 12:53 PM You do have to test that the color will not show through to your fashion fabric. Like a white fabric for instance.
I have had to watch that I don't get color on my sleeves - Like Susan mentioned, not a good idea to wear white top 
I weigh it down on all 4 corners for tracing. At this point, I have only used it on muslin. Many years ago I used to use it on fashion fabric to trace darts. |
Miss Fairchild
 
 Advanced USA Member since 8/24/02 Posts: 7003 |
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Date: 4/30/12 1:09 PM Some stuff out of my past....hmmm. I've always used a serrated edge tracing wheel and don't select a color too dark from the main color of my fabric. In other words, no blue tracing paper on a white dress;try yellow.
I've used it for darts, collar changes, hems, pocket placement--just about anything.
To get it out, I've used Gonzo. ------ "We don't impose our rhythm on Nature. The key is to respect and live within Her." Jean-Charles Boisset, Winemaker
"And no, now that you asked, I didn't enjoy that play one bit, and I'd like a refund" Signed, Mrs. Lincoln
My Etsy shop: auntmaymesattic
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happytobehere
Beginner Member since 7/31/10 Posts: 251 |
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Date: 4/30/12 1:54 PM I've been using it since the sixties with a serrated wheel they sell at the dollar stores. |
Scheri
 Advanced Beginner AB CANADA Member since 7/13/10 Posts: 251 |
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 2 members like this. Date: 4/30/12 10:49 PM I purchased during Susan's course and it really is handy. A great way to use and store is I purchased from my local Michael's Crafts a foam core board which is scored in the centre. I taped the large shhet on the board when I am done marking I just fold in half and put away.
------ Scheri Manson
Edmonton, AB CANADA |
Scrnme007
 Beginner USA Member since 4/5/11 Posts: 60 |
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Date: 5/1/12 1:21 AM How big are the sheets of tracing paper? I've had problems with shifting the pattern askew when moving the paper from place to place. Any suggests? The foam core idea sounds interesting ..
I guess you place the tracing paper up, then layer on fabric, pattern, tracing wheel? Where Did you all purchase the tracing paper? I purchased some at Joann's, but had trouble getting it to transfer to the fabric no matter how hard I push. ------ SewWannabe-SewReady |
tigergirl
 Advanced Beginner AUSTRALIA Member since 11/30/09 Posts: 176 |
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Date: 5/1/12 2:32 AM It seems it's always been in my sewing stuff and something I've used quite a bit for all manner of things, much like Miss Fairchild. I still have my original stuff that was probably bought in the early 80's and only recently decided to upgrade as it was so worn. it was in strips approx. 4 inches wide and 1.5 feet long. I used to use mine with a spikey tracing wheel - that was all I had and all that was available to me at the time - you can imagine the mess that has made of it, a million perforations. A couple of years ago it was brought to my attention that there are actually tracing wheels that have blunt serrated wheels, so now I've got the clover double one, which means you can mark the seam and sa in one go (although you have to be careful to hold it straight up). I bought some clover tracing paper - the marks are so hard to see, so I didn't think much of it. It was also in sheets approx. A4 size - I cut them down the middle to get strips which are easier to manipulate. I read on here that Seral paper is good (but that's chalk) and I bought a couple of rolls of that on ebay but haven't used them yet. I did do a test and it seems to transfer well.
If I'm marking doubled up fabric I try to put pins in such a way that there is space to slide the paper in to where I need it, both between the fabric layers and the pattern and fabric so that I'm marking both at the same time and don't need to bother moving pins around.
As for removing it, I've really only used it on dark or light but fairly thick fabric and have had no problems with it washing out ....... yet. ------ Brother BM-2600
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http://tigergirladventures.blogspot.com/ |
meleliza
 Intermediate PA Member since 5/4/11 Posts: 493 |
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Date: 5/1/12 11:39 AM I have also bought the stuff from Clover and found it annoying to use Because of the small size and faint marks. This stuff is in very large sheets and will accommodate an entire pattern piece. This way, you can trace the pattern and all your markings without cutting the tissue. Susan Khalje showed us how to cut the piece roughly around the tissue, place it on the waxed paper and mark one side. Then you remove the tissue, flip the unit over and trace over your first marks to mark the other side quickly and accurately. She used it for muslins and underlining, but I think with some care I should be able to do this for fashion fabric in regular sewing that won't get the whole underlining, lining treatment. Obviously. You mark up quite a lot of the muslin. I also think that with the double tracing wheel, it would be helpful for those Japanese or euro patterns that don't include seam allowances.
I'm having some luck getting the lie marks out with oxy clean. Clearly I will have to be more careful of this!
The only place to buy the dress makers waxed paper online is Richard the Thread. You must spend $35 before they ship, which means 9 sheets of paper. It's probably a lifetime supply, so if you're in Philly and just want one piece,I could share. I did read on the Oliver and S forum that Liesl may soon carry it in their online shop by the single sheet.
I think the foam core idea is a great one. I've been laying it on my cutting mat and weighing the corners down with whatever I had lying around. ------ Melanie |
Miss Fairchild
 
 Advanced USA Member since 8/24/02 Posts: 7003 |
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Date: 5/1/12 5:14 PM This type of pattern tracing sounds like a lot of trouble. I taught my sewing students to use newsprint, or tissue or tracing paper, over the pattern, after the pattern is taped to a large window, such as a sliding glass door.
When I use my paper, I fold it with the marking side out, and lay it between the wrong sides of my fabric, so that the marks will be made on the wrong side. Then I lay my pattern on top, and use the wheel to trace. -- Edited on 5/1/12 5:15 PM -- ------ "We don't impose our rhythm on Nature. The key is to respect and live within Her." Jean-Charles Boisset, Winemaker
"And no, now that you asked, I didn't enjoy that play one bit, and I'd like a refund" Signed, Mrs. Lincoln
My Etsy shop: auntmaymesattic
My blog: auntmaymesattic.wordpress.com
Avatar: First place award for jacket at county fair |
lorscot60
 Member since 3/23/11 Posts: 1 |
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Date: 9/1/12 10:20 PM Seriously, is there any way to get this stuff out? After taking Susan Kaljie's class I have been marking everything with waxed tracing paper and it's been great; that is until I tried to get the marks out! One of the skirts I made is unwearable because of it. I've tried oxyclean and some other things but nothing has worked. Is there any hope? |