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Lining a V-neck Bodice
Burda vs my lining
lakaribane
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lakaribane
Haiti
Member since 7/23/07
Posts: 2547
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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Date: 5/5/12 8:13 AM

Inspired by AllisonC's version of 07-2011-110, I'm making it in a cotton twill.

Now, since this is for the 100% Natural fibers contest, that my fabric is rather light, I decided to line the entire dress.

This is the Sewing Course of the issue so there are illustrations. Burda wants me to sew the shoulder seam first, then sew the neckline facings and finally Center Front seams for both the front seam and the front neckline facing.



Should I do it like this still, even with the lining or not. The front V is slightly curved. Thank you in advance for any help you can provide.

------
Morphology: Petite at 1m53 (5'), Burda size altered 19 or altered 38, Big 4 size 10 or 12 depending on ease;
Alterations: Petite, Narrow Shoulders, Slim Arms, Narrow waist, Increase Back Crotch Depth. Considering: Forward Neck/Rounded Upper Back, Slight Swayback;
Style: Feminine, Colorful, Fitted, Clean lines;
Favorite Garment type: Dress;
Favorite Colors: Purple, Navy, Brown, Shocking Pink, Coral, Aqua;
Favorite Fibers, Weaves or Patterns: Cotton, Linen, Cotton Silk blend, Seersucker, Swiss Dot, Lawn, Denim, Stripes, Chevron, Window pane Plaid, Bias;
Blog : http://fashionmate.blogspot.com
Pinterest : http://pinterest.com/lakaribane/

meanjean
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meanjean  Friend of PR
Texas USA
Member since 5/4/05
Posts: 435
Skill: Advanced
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Date: 5/5/12 8:48 AM

I just did something similar. I made a pull-over sleeveless top using a very scrumptuous, high-end cotton. It has shoulder-princess lines like yours, but has a square neckline instead of a V. For reasons similar to yours, I decided to line it. (I didn't like the look of underlining when I experimented with that.)

Anyway, after agonizing over how to construct and attach the lining, I finally did it like this:

- Cut the lining with the same pattern pieces
- Constructed the bodice (panel seams, shoulders, side seams)
- Partially constructed the lining (panel seams and shoulders)
- Attached the lining to the bodice at the neckline, pressed, under-stitched, trimmed, pressed again. The neckline came out looking great! Whew!
- Sewed the side seams of the lining.
- Hemmed the bodice.
- Hemmed the lining.

You can probably re-arrange those steps to simplify things.

Now I just have to finish the armscyes. I'm thinking of binding them with silk charmeuse instead of using facings, but haven't decided yet.


-- Edited on 5/5/12 9:10 AM --

------
Jean

"A woman of valor, who can find? ... She seeks out wool and linen, and her hands work willingly ..." Proverbs 3:13-18

lakaribane
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lakaribane
Haiti
Member since 7/23/07
Posts: 2547
Skill: Advanced Beginner
Body Type:
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In reply to meanjean <<


Date: 5/5/12 1:06 PM

Thanks for your reply, MeanJean. So you are in favor of sewing the CF bodice seam and then the neckline facings?

------
Morphology: Petite at 1m53 (5'), Burda size altered 19 or altered 38, Big 4 size 10 or 12 depending on ease;
Alterations: Petite, Narrow Shoulders, Slim Arms, Narrow waist, Increase Back Crotch Depth. Considering: Forward Neck/Rounded Upper Back, Slight Swayback;
Style: Feminine, Colorful, Fitted, Clean lines;
Favorite Garment type: Dress;
Favorite Colors: Purple, Navy, Brown, Shocking Pink, Coral, Aqua;
Favorite Fibers, Weaves or Patterns: Cotton, Linen, Cotton Silk blend, Seersucker, Swiss Dot, Lawn, Denim, Stripes, Chevron, Window pane Plaid, Bias;
Blog : http://fashionmate.blogspot.com
Pinterest : http://pinterest.com/lakaribane/

cocosloft
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cocosloft  Friend of PR
Florida USA
Member since 3/17/12
Posts: 432
Skill: Advanced
Body Type:
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Date: 5/6/12 7:51 AM

Hi. It would be nice if you could construct a front bodice lining without a center seam, since the bodice is somewhat fitted, to cut down on bulk in this area. Then assemble your bodice front and back, and the lining front and back, and apply the lining in normal fashion at the neck and armholes.

------
Coco

Juki HZL-F600
Singer Quantum Stylist II
Juki MO-654DE
Janome 8002D
IKEA SY

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