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Forum > Fitting Woes > do the side seams of this jacket need taking in? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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do the side seams of this jacket need taking in?
advice appreciated!
rmusic1
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rmusic1
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Date: 5/5/12 11:45 AM

I'm making a jacket this is the front and this is the back on both photos I think it shows there is a bit too much room in the bottom half of the jacket.

There is no skirt section, this is intentional (I'm skipping it). Here's the pattern I'm making it from (Vogue 8645). I'm still relatively new to jackets, having only made one coat so far.

I'd like to make any changes before I add the lining. What are your thoughts? Thanks in advance.

Fictionfan
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Date: 5/5/12 11:55 AM

You need to decide how much ease *you* want. Is the lower edge going to be turned up to be a hem, or are you going to add a facing or a jacket weight chain? Also, I assume that you intend to wear this over something, not directly against your skin and undergarments. To check the fit and ease of the jacket, put it on over a garment that you expect to wear under this jacket. You will normally need more ease for outer garments than for garments that are worn close to the skin. If you are intending to wear it without a blouse or dress under it, it does look a little loose. Again, how much ease do you like? If you put it on, does it feel too roomy or just right?

HTH
-- Edited on 5/5/12 11:57 AM --
-- Edited on 5/5/12 12:02 PM --

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Fictionfan

Debbie Lancaster
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Date: 5/5/12 1:54 PM

Once you put the "skirt" on, it will hang very differently. But there does seem to be an excess at the back and maybe the sides. As Fictionfan noted, you need to decide how much ease you want and try put some other garments over it, but it looks pouffy at the back. It may need to have deeper darts or a larger back seam as well. You may want to undo the darts, back seam, and side seams and re-sew them with a basting stitch, then baste the skirt part on and see how it all hangs.
-- Edited on 5/5/12 1:55 PM --

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In reply to rmusic1 <<


Date: 5/5/12 2:58 PM

I think it just depends on what kind of look you are going for, with just using only the top part and no "skirt" on it. Lots of jackets are kind of boxy anyways. If you are just going to use the top part, you might not even want it too "tight" to you body, as not only does it have to go over the regular top that you wear, if it's too fitted and tight on the sides, then I think when you move around and raise your arms up, it may even "stick" to the clothes or body underneath it. If it were mine, I think I would just try it on with some clothes I planed to wear with it, in front of a mirror, and bend and stretch while doing that, and raise arms up and down at the same time, and maybe pin it at different places to see just how loose or tight I might want it.

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In reply to rmusic1 <<


Date: 5/5/12 8:12 PM

I'd put a 2" band on the bottom and wear it like it is. The band will just barely touch the top of your hip and would help to hang the upper portion straight.

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skae
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In reply to rmusic1 <<


Date: 5/5/12 8:29 PM

how about trying it on? then we can see if it needs to be taken in. take a few pictures and let us see how it looks on you.
-- Edited on 5/6/12 10:17 AM --

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Ecclesiastes 11:7,8 Nothing on earth is more beautiful than the morning sun. Even if you live to a ripe old age, you should try to enjoy each day, because darkness will come and will last a long time. (CEV)

rmusic1
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In reply to skae <<


Date: 5/7/12 1:37 PM

hi Skae

Good question, I should have thought about the difference of fit between me and a approximation of me! I also thought it might be worth adding the lining, as it always helps things hang better.

So, here are some more photos

still to do:

hemming at the waist of both lining and main fabric

need to add snap and closure (it says to make a loop, but would a button work better?)

attach the lining at the shoulders

Hem the sleeve lining

Apart from that (and one final press) I think it's looking actually better than I had feared. I have also tried it on over the dress I intend to wear it with, and it has bulked out a bit the gaps which were there previously. Ease does depend on what you are wearing under it, which is something I am still learning about.

I must say, the neckline has improved tremendously after adding the lining, understitching and a good press.

a7yrstitch
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In reply to rmusic1 <<


Date: 5/7/12 2:36 PM

I remember this pattern and I love how it is looking.

Probably a little late, but be sure that if you snug it up that every reach and turn does not then cause the jacket to send that message to the skirt of your underlying dress. If you do have to take it in consider your darts as one of the places to make adjustments.

Are you making the dress that had corresponding lines that were an extension of the jacket lines? (this was a consideration from an older thread). If you are working with that pattern, you would want to make your adjustments so that you maintained the alignment of the shared design line as it drops vertically from the jacket and extends down into the skirt of the dress.

Taking all adjustments (if you make any) at the side seams might pull your darts too far to the outside of the jacket.

If you are pairing this with the pattern that you were thinking of before, would you mind posting the pattern number?

Tickled to see that your are making this jacket. It is really sharp. When you finish, I would enjoy hearing your thoughts on making it with a double faced wool. The fabric I have has plenty of body so the collar should work as a 'single' layer of the double faced fabric.

Best wishes.

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rmusic1
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In reply to a7yrstitch <<


Date: 5/23/12 2:54 AM

hello a7yrstitch

I'm very pleased to say the jacket is now all done. The review can be found here.

In response to your question about double faced wool, I think it could be done, but you would probably have some pressing work ahead, to get the shape right with the front bust darts.

Also, the pattern calls for the collar to have a lining undersection. I ignored this, and used my fashion fabric, as it isn't thick, and I didn't want lining underneath). But I think this might be worth doing with double faced wool, just to give it the shape (otherwise you've got to figure out the pattern pieces without seam allowances for the collar. ugh!).

In the end I didn't take in the side seams any further. The very sensible suggestions on this thread of considering what I was going to wear underneath turned out very true. By the time I had added a top, slip, and dress underneath the jacket, it fit much better.

a7yrstitch
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In reply to rmusic1 <<


Date: 5/23/12 2:51 PM

Your jacket is fantastic rmusic1.

Thanks for your thoughts on the double faced wool; particularly regarding the darts. Sounds like I would need to slash out the dart and join the fabric in order to keep the jacket reversible.

If you haven't worked with double faced wool yet, it can be handled in a variety of ways. Edges can be bound or covered. For instance, I could slash out the dart, but the cut edges together and then place on trim over the abuttment.

I could also pull out the inner stitching at the edges of the double faced wool that holds it together in the areas that I want to seam. Then I could stitch in traditional seams on each of the two layers independently and then hide the seam allowances between the two layers when I rejoin them.

The piece I have is a pretty solid deep red on one side and a buffalo green plaid in the other. For that, I might just slash out the darts, blanket stitch the raw edges, abut the blanket stitched edges together (no overlap and no seam allowance) and join with a hidden stitch.

Looking at your pictures also helped me see what a stunning vest, or, sleevless jacket, I could make from this pattern. That may sound odd, but consider where I live. I did not wear a coat once last winter and perhaps just a time or two in the last three years. Sometimes I need just a little something like a vest, but the typical vest isn't nice enough for some of our evening outings.

Thanks so much. Have I mentioned before that you are inspiring?

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