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Shirt Collar Stand
Collar stand doesn't fit neckline - Vogue 8772
zeddie
zeddie  Friend of PR
Alberta CANADA
Member since 11/10/03
Posts: 67
Skill: Beginner
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Date: 5/6/12 6:35 PM

I am making a shirt (View D) from Vogue 8772. I'm on my second muslin (size 12) as the first one (size 10) was too tight. I have the fitting more or less right but I am having problems sewing the collar stand to the shirt. The collar stand is too small for the neckline. When I match the stand and the shirt at center back, the markings on the collar stand for center front do not reach the shirt's center front. I had the same problem with the size 10 muslin as well. There appears to be significant ease in the neckline. Is the neckline supposed to be about 1 3/4" larger than the collar stand? Am I supposed to gather the neckline? Last time I made the muslin, I measured the area around the neckline on the pattern and it didn't match the length of the collar stand so I know it's not that the neckline has stretched. What am I doing wrong?

Vireya
Vireya
Australia
Member since 12/10/05
Posts: 1034
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 5/6/12 7:01 PM

There a a handful of review of that pattern here and none of them mentioned a problem with the stand being the wrong size. So it sounds like maybe you are doing something wrong, but I'm not sure what. Are you definitely comparing the stitching lines, rather than the cutting lines?

GlButterfly

GlButterfly
California USA
Member since 8/28/08
Posts: 3508
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 5/6/12 8:11 PM

Is it possible that the collar edge is supposed to come to the center front and you are measuring the entire neckline instead of just cf to cf? (Just a thought.)

------
That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

zeddie
zeddie  Friend of PR
Alberta CANADA
Member since 11/10/03
Posts: 67
Skill: Beginner
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Date: 5/6/12 8:51 PM

I've measured the pattern pieces for this size (which I had traced not cut out) and compared them to the pattern and I've definitely stretched the back piece. It is about 3/4" longer. I'm assuming the best way to avoid doing this on the actual garment is to stay stitch or is there some other way to prevent the pieces from stretching? The muslin has been handled over the course of two days as I've tried it on over a half dozen times so it would be more likely to stretch than the garment but I really want to avoid problems if I can so any help would be appreciated!

JeanM

JeanM
Virginia USA
Member since 6/25/05
Posts: 190
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 5/6/12 9:18 PM

There was another discussion recently about a stretched out neckline; I'm not sure where it was but here are a couple of suggestions that I remember -

- if your fabric will handle heat/steam, try steam/pressing it back into shape - use a pattern tracing of the neckline to help you get the sizing correct

- stitch along the seamline of the stretched portion of the neckline, and use the stitching to gently pull the fabric back to the correct length (gathering, or ease-stitching, just pulled as tightly)

There were probably other suggestions that I'm not remembering at the moment...

lca
star
lca  Friend of PR
Member since 6/4/07
Posts: 687
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 5/7/12 4:47 PM

What I do is iron on interfacing to the fabric and then cut out the pieces.

Vireya
Vireya
Australia
Member since 12/10/05
Posts: 1034
Skill: Intermediate
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In reply to zeddie <<


Date: 5/8/12 6:28 PM

Quote: zeddie
I've definitely stretched the back piece. It is about 3/4" longer. I'm assuming the best way to avoid doing this on the actual garment is to stay stitch

I'd be surprised if the pattern didn't tell you to staystitch the necklines before you start working with them.

Another alternative you can consider is a tear-away stabiliser. You can see a blog post on how to use them here.
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