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Message Board > Beginner's Forum > Professional tailor put chain stitch on a crotch seam ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Professional tailor put chain stitch on a crotch seam
Why? It unravels in the blink of an eye!
JOshiro
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JOshiro  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/7/12 3:07 PM

Husband asked me to mend several of his pants (purchased at a men's clothier like Men's Wearhouse or Jos A Bank). The center back seam, which had been altered at the time of purchase, had split. Upon inspection of the seam, I could tell that the in-house tailor had sewn the altered seam using a chain stitch. Of course, when a chain stitch breaks, it can unravel at lightning speed. Why would you put that on a high-stress (and potentially high-embarrassment) area like a crotch seam?
-- Edited on 5/7/12 3:07 PM --

a7yrstitch
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In reply to JOshiro <<


Date: 5/7/12 4:14 PM

I check hubbie's and often add in a short run of back stitching as a preventative measure.

Also have to do a periodic thread check on anything that is dry cleaned. If the cleaners has a bad batch of chemicals (too strong, whatever) it can weaken the threads.


-- Edited on 5/7/12 6:43 PM --

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PattiAnnJ
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In reply to JOshiro <<


Date: 5/7/12 4:19 PM

Use polyester thread and make two lines of stitching for extra strength.

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I dont give them Hell, I just tell the truth about them and they think its Hell. Harry Truman

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hornlinechick
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Date: 5/7/12 4:22 PM

I work in an alterations shop and see this as standard procedure in the original manufacture of pants. A chain stitch is sturdier and has a little more stretch then an lock stitch, both good things in a crotch seam. It only becomes a problem when the thread finally breaks and someone pulls it. Sometime you can even get lucky and the thread will knot on itself and stop the hole from getting larger before it is repaired.

annsew65
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Date: 5/8/12 1:52 AM

I've also wondered about the same thing. DH is a between size and I always have to take up/let out his pants, so I encounter this all the time. I do have the capability of putting it back with a chain stitch, but I'm really afraid to. I should say that DH hasn't ever split the crotch seam in any of the pants I've altered with a lock stitch. It should be noted though, that the thread that is used is in the manufacture of the pants is much heavier than what I use on my serger for the chain stitch.

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dresscode

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Date: 5/8/12 9:30 AM

Aren't jeans (Traditional Levi's) sewn with a chain-stitch?

PattiAnnJ
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 5/8/12 11:12 AM

Teach your husband to never, ever pull a loose thread!!!!!

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I dont give them Hell, I just tell the truth about them and they think its Hell. Harry Truman

"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

JOshiro
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In reply to PattiAnnJ <<


Date: 5/8/12 12:01 PM

LOL, that's the kicker right there! I never asked if he discovered the split WHILE AT WORK or if he saw it at home when he wasn't wearing the pants. Definitely don't pull that thread!

beauturbo
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In reply to JOshiro <<


Date: 5/8/12 1:15 PM

If concerned about it, I think you could get a little bottle of fray check, and run a line of that liquid along the chain stitching. That way if you did have a thread break, it would probably slow down the unraveling.

I worked (very briefly) in a large big chain suit shop right out of High School. Would for not sure, have not called my self a Professional Tailor at all though. That did not keep them from hiring me at all thoughIt did not pay hardly anything either. But I did know how to sew. I did take in/let out the back of suit pants, and hem. Stacks and stacks of them. I usually had them out on the floor, marking for me though. Way back then, using chain was not at all standard for that though, and I really used a lockstitch instead. Have no idea what they do now.

I would not rule out even the possibility though, that they may have even had a lockstitch machine down, or several people and less machines, and the thread that was in the right color for something, or the machine that may have been working or free at the moment, may have just even been the chain stitcher at the time too. You never know, unless you go back and maybe just ask. Or possibly, if you thought it was someone that was going to be coming back a lot to have the pants taken in and out (maybe dieting or such) someone could have just decided to do it that way, even for time saving too possibly.

I think a chain would put less stress on some fabrics sometimes, particular if rather loose woven, and likely to prone to have weave shifts, just because no interlocking going on in the actual fabric and more on the outside of the fabric instead.



dscheidt

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In reply to dresscode <<


Date: 5/10/12 8:01 PM

Quote: dresscode
Aren't jeans (Traditional Levi's) sewn with a chain-stitch?

Yep. The felled seams on most jeans, as well as the waistband attachment, is done with chainstitches. They're a lot less sensitive to tension problems, and since there's no bobbin thread, it doesn't have to be changed. Some stuff is done with lockstitch machines, though.
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