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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Does this look familiar? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Does this look familiar?
Has anyone else had to do this alteration?
SVN
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Date: 5/10/12 3:26 PM

I think I've made progress with my CF issue. I've always had taut wrinkles pointing to CF seam. First I thought it was big thighs, then I thought I just needed shallower curve at front, but now I'm seeing that I need to add a whopping amount of fabric to CF seam.
Before:
click here
After:
click here
This is supposed to cause camel toe, but it seems to work for me. If I add at side seams instead of CF, it does nothing to those wrinkles. Does anyone recognise this alteration or understand why it works?

goodworks1
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Date: 5/10/12 4:13 PM

Take this with a grain of salt, as I haven't read your previous posts....

I think you do need more space across the front (see the way your marked grainline curves), but I'd be inclined to split the front pattern piece down the middle (or at the grainline) and add it there rather than the center front. You'll be less likely to mess up the fit in the crotch area.

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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com

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In reply to goodworks1 <<


Date: 5/10/12 4:34 PM

Thanks for your thoughts, goodworks. The crotch never fit in the first place, so I'm not so worried about wrecking it.
However, if I were to add add the grainline, how could I do this evenly? Aren't my choices either a) wedge (greatest at waist where I need no width) or b) even all the way down the leg?

woggy
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In reply to SVN <<


Date: 5/10/12 4:54 PM

Actually, the alteration you did at the CF is recommended by Palmer and Pletsche in their Pants for Everybody book. In their book, the suggestion is to have the CF line parallel to the grain line because most CF lines are slanted inward. Straightening the CF gives you more material over your belly. You might have to work the curve a bit to fit but you are on your way to a nice fitting pair of pants

I add to the CF the same as you. Another way you could add extra to your front is draw a line in the middle of the torso portion of your pattern from the waist to the crotch line. Slice through this line and the crotch line. Measure the amount that you added with the recent alteration - say you added a total of an inch (the red material's width equal's an inch from right to left side.) Separate the vertical line 1/2 inch and add paper under it. What you have done is widen the upper half of your pattern to equal an inch when the two sides are sewn together at the CF. You need to re-attach this portion back to the crotch line and adjust the side seams and inseams.

You may not want to mess with the side seam and inseam to make the above adjustment which is why it would be easier to add to the CF.

If you google Rusty Bobbin, a PR member who has a blog, she has also done the same alteration to the CF on her jean's pattern. You can search her blog for this alteration - she has great pictures of her different alterations.

Woggy

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Date: 5/11/12 7:45 AM

Thanks for your thoughts, woggy.
I think it would be useful for me to emphasise that this alteration needs to happen at the crotch curve for me. Basically, pants tend to sit away from my actual curve, and this alteration provides the extra fabric needed to draw the line of the trousers back against my body. The purpose is not to add fabric at the waist or tummy, but at the area between inseam to above hipline.
It is sort of the 'shallow curve' alteration, but extended!
I should add that using the HBL and crease line were instrumental in confirming what needs to happen for these trousers to fit - I highly recommend everyone put these on their muslin!

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