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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > changing bias cut skirt from elastic waistband to facing?

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changing bias cut skirt from elastic waistband to facing?
Argarg
Argarg  Friend of PR
Beginner
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Member since 8/20/09
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Date: 5/11/12 9:18 AM

Hi, I made Kwik Sew 3003, but the elastic waistband looks terrible. I want it to stay sleek at the top. I'm happy with the fit from the hips down and I successfully matched the plaid so I don't want to give up on it! I was wondering if I could trim off the top and/or take it in at the waist and just make a facing for the waist? Should the facing be cut on the bias too? I would think so but maybe there's some trick I don't know about. I would have to open up one seam and put in a zipper, I guess, as well. I'm a beginner, just fumbling along, so this would be a big experiment for me! If anyone has any advice, I would be so appreciative. Thanks so much.

Padmé

Padmé
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Date: 5/11/12 10:25 AM

I would take the elastic and and unpick the stitches or cut it off at the stitch line, whichever you thought it could handle. Then I would put the skirt on right side out, and facing a mirror see how much extra fabric you have on each side, Measure it with the handy ruler you have near. Move out about 1/2 an inch and pin. Then pin down the excess on the sides giving yourself the ease you want. You can chalk or mark this line along the pins on the wrong side.

But you are going to have to think about an opening before this point..center zipper, lapped zipper? I've made view A, and that you be a side seam zipper. (My skirt is packed away for next fall.) You may need to do a lapped zipper if you have the seam allowances. You can face with double wide bias tape, (Sew Everything Workshop book has instructions) or make your own facing. The facing will be about 2 inches wide and interfaced. It can be from the skirt fabric or a similiar fabric in cotton something. Straighten out your skrt nicely and lay some tracing paper over the skirt and lightly sketch out the rounded facing pieces back and front in case you've made some changes in your pinning and slimming. Make your facing go from side to side as you have a side opening.

Do you want me to clarify my thoughts any?
-- Edited on 5/11/12 10:28 AM --

Argarg
Argarg  Friend of PR
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In reply to Padmé <<


Date: 5/11/12 1:04 PM

I think that makes sense so far, thank you so much! The only thing is, I'm not sure how to do a lapped zipper, and not sure how it relates to the seam allowances. Do I need more than 5/8? (I can look up lapped zippers, so of course don't feel like you have to describe the whole process! Or maybe I should just do a regular zipper, and make the best of it...) Thank you again!

Padmé

Padmé
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In reply to Argarg <<


Date: 5/11/12 2:34 PM

I think on a side seam a lapped zipper would be prettier than a centered zipper. You can look in some of your books if you have some, or you tube. I will look for some good examples on you tube, but I have to take a child shopping right now.

Argarg
Argarg  Friend of PR
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In reply to Padmé <<


Date: 5/11/12 3:47 PM

I found a nice step by step for a lapped zipper that was just posted a couple of days ago...

http://coatsandclarksewingsecrets.blogspot.com/2012/05/sewing-lapped-zipper-in-skirt.html

And lastly, should the facing be cut on the bias too, or does it not matter because it's being interfaced anyway?

Thank you so much -- going to be working on this over the weekend!!

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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Date: 5/11/12 4:01 PM

If you use double-fold bias tape like Padme suggested, it will automatically be on the bias! :)

I would think that NOT being on the bias might help stabilize things and keep the waist from stretching out as you wear it. But that's a theory only!

------
~Gem in the prairie

Argarg
Argarg  Friend of PR
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In reply to stirwatersblue <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 5/11/12 4:34 PM

Thanks for the tip about the double fold bias tape -- I just don't have any around the house, so I was leaning towards the facing because I have everything on hand. If I get a chance to run to the store, maybe the bias tape would be easier, though, you're right...thanks!

Padmé

Padmé
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Date: 5/11/12 6:12 PM

With the zipper, just baste alot. I do. You will need to staystitch your skirt. Measure from the center of each panel and sew out to the side seam seam allowances. About 1/4 to 1/2 depending on the seam allowance you choose on the top.

On the facing the top of your skirt will be your pattern. I would walk a tape measure around your skirt and give yourself about an inch on each side. Your facing will need a bottom finish of some kind. You will sew it to the top matching your one side seam. Think about what size of seam allowance you want at the top. After you sew all around, you grade, and then understitch, turn and iron the facing down on the wrong side. The zipper area, you line up your presser foot with the edge of the skirt and sew straight up. When you turn your facing to the wrong side, it should fold under the right side on the ends. This you iron down and slip stitch it to the zipper twill tape.

Actually, you will not sew straight up, just to the end and then backstitch and then fold under, press and slipstitch. I'm pulling brownies out and making dinner at the same time.

I do a lot of basting with hand or a setting of 4 and do a lot of turning and pinning and trying before I commit to the scissors and the 2.5 stitch.


-- Edited on 5/11/12 6:18 PM --

Argarg
Argarg  Friend of PR
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In reply to Padmé <<


Date: 5/11/12 6:57 PM

Great, thank you again, I will be referring to this a lot this weekend. I wish I had some brownies right now, by the way, sounds delicious!

Padmé

Padmé
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Date: 5/12/12 8:00 PM

How did the zipper turn out? How did the waistband do?

The brownies were good, but my kids and husband got most of them. Here's the recipe if you want some.

Cocoa Brownies
1/2 cup all purpose flour
1/2 cup cocoa
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup butter or margarine
1 cup sugar
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup walnuts coarsely chopped, optional

Preheat oven to 350. Grease a 9 inch square baking pan. In a bowl combine flour, cocoa, baking powder, and salt.
In a 3 qt saucepan melt butter over low heat. Remove from heat and stir in sugar, Stir in eggs one at a time, until well blended, add vanilla. Stir in flour mixture into sugar mixture until well blended. Stir in nuts if using. Spread batter evenly in prepared pan. Bake about 25 minutes.

This is a big favorite at our house. The cookbook falls open to the page.

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