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Forum > Beginner's Forum > Flat Felled Seam on Men's Shirt armscye ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Flat Felled Seam on Men's Shirt armscye
redmalva
redmalva
Member since 5/14/12
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Date: 5/14/12 10:36 AM

Hi there,

I am a beginner starting to sew my own (men's) dress shirts.

The biggest trouble I am having is finishing the seam on my armscye/sleeve; especially the curve at the sleevecap, I can't finish the seam neatly. I have tried ironing the longer SA over the short SA and pinning, but when I get the machine, it all unravels and becomes an unsightly mess. I've read that I am supposed to clip SA at curves, but I don't understand how to do this if I want a Flat fell seam.

I have a flat-fell foot and that doesn't help as the SA at the curve just wants to bunch up. Can somebody direct me to tips on how to do this (or even youtube video)?

Thanks,



Trinity.
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Trinity.
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Subject: Flat Felled Seam on Mens Shirt armscye Date: 5/14/12 11:10 AM

You don't need to clip the SA at the armscye for the flat fell seam -- or at least I don't.

What you do have to do is iron very, very carefully. The SA that you are folding and sewing flat is longer than the one that you are covering, so you have to ease or pleat that extra fullness under.

I don't use a flat fell foot. I recently discovered that with practice, you can do a beautiful flat fell seam without one. I just posted about it on my blog a couple of weeks ago. Flat Fell Post on Thimbles, Threads, and Needles

I also have a photo tutorial on my blog, but I realize that the pictures aren't as good as they could be and it's probably not as good as a video :o) Flat Fell Photo Tutorial

HTH.
-- Edited on 5/14/12 11:11 AM --

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Trinity

http://thimblesthreadsandneedles.blogspot.com/

arianamaniacs
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Subject: Flat Felled Seam on Mens Shirt armscye Date: 5/15/12 2:46 AM

I don't iron, since I always burn my fingers with flat-felled seams. This technique is a matter of practice. What I do is cut the inside seam very carefully to half the length of the foldover side. Then start tucking the foldover side over the inside seam, sew a few stitches, tuck, stitch... etc.
It doesn't have to look perfect, it's on the inside of the shirt.

nicegirl
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nicegirl
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Subject: Flat Felled Seam on Mens Shirt armscye Date: 5/15/12 9:41 AM

I don't have a ton of experience but flat-felling is easier the straighter the seam. I have noticed that American men's dress shirts have very large armscyes with a pronouncedly dropped shoulder, which flattens the armscye curve to almost nothing. If you are using a more European-cut pattern (higher armscye, closer to true shoulder) flat-felling will be much more difficult. I can't offer more than that observation, but at least you know it's not you!

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http://theslapdashsewist.blogspot.com
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2007: purchased 115+, sewed 105+
So close to parity, yet so far

Trying again in 2008
Yards purchased: 133
Yards sewn: Somewhere around 95

2009? I give up

Trinity.
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Trinity.
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In reply to nicegirl <<


Date: 5/15/12 12:54 PM

Quote: nicegirl
American men's dress shirts have very large armscyes with a pronouncedly dropped shoulder, which flattens the armscye curve to almost nothing. If you are using a more European-cut pattern (higher armscye, closer to true shoulder) flat-felling will be much more difficult.

this is definitely true. I'm primarily using Burda and Jalie men's patterns, both of which tend to be more closer fitting than any of the Big 4 or Kwik Sew (Big 5 now, maybe?). The curves are tighter making the foldover of the flat fell a little trickier.

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Trinity

http://thimblesthreadsandneedles.blogspot.com/

Trinity.
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Trinity.
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In reply to arianamaniacs <<


Date: 5/15/12 1:00 PM

I burn my fingers, too. Fairly regularly. I've never tried it without ironing, though.

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Trinity

http://thimblesthreadsandneedles.blogspot.com/

lca
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lca  Friend of PR
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Subject: Flat Felled Seam on Mens Shirt armscye Date: 5/15/12 3:42 PM

Try using a mini iron. I haven't tried it with flat felled seams, but sometimes it is easier to use without getting burned, for example, making bias tape.

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